C600 Sport/C650 GT Belt Replacement

davidh

Member
I did my first belt/roller replacement yesterday and figured I'd take a few pictures and provide some tips to those who haven't done it themselves. All in all, it was very straightforward without any nasty surprises. You will need a few specialized tools but nothing too crazy. I've included that information as well as the BMW service stuff in the attachment. I'm open to comments or constructive criticism :)

The document/pictures were too large to attach here but I uploaded it to Dropbox -- click here

PS. Let me know if the link doesn't work and I'll figure it out.
 
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Skutorr

Active member
Okay, that was amazing. You are now the Official US C-series GURU!

What weight Dr. Pulleys did you put in and what do you think of them???
 

davidh

Member
Okay, that was amazing. You are now the Official US C-series GURU!

What weight Dr. Pulleys did you put in and what do you think of them???

I used 28g sliders (p/n: SR3020R/8-28). They seem a bit quicker off the line, quieter, and I haven't noticed any top-end changes (of course, I rarely hit 120 mp/h anyway!). I rode about 40 miles on them today (mostly freeway) but 60-80 mp/h time seems a bit quicker. I'll be interested to see what if any affect it has on my mileage.

And thanks for the compliment! I figured I've gotten so much out of this and other scooter forums I better contribute something worthwhile. :p
 

yellasei

New member
absolutely spot on write up and nice to see you used the holding tool which makes the job a doddle. only thing i would add is that one GT i have done i had to replace the tab washers (come as a kit with new nut) as the inner locating tab that holds to the shaft had sheared and let the washer turn with the nut.
 

davidh

Member
absolutely spot on write up and nice to see you used the holding tool which makes the job a doddle. only thing i would add is that one GT i have done i had to replace the tab washers (come as a kit with new nut) as the inner locating tab that holds to the shaft had sheared and let the washer turn with the nut.

Thanks and I was wondering about the locking washers myself. Mine seated and didn't turn but if they had (or if the tabs broke off) I definitely would've replaced them.

Does BMW intend for the nuts and washers to be replaced at each interval?

Also, how did you loosen the clutch nut? The way I did or something better?
 

yellasei

New member
i used the holding tool and turned the shaft to undo the clutch. there is nothing about replacing the nut and tab washer, i would just use your own judgment that it would re-use.
 

Snowdog

New member
Lock tabs

Lock tabs. I haven't looked at the lock tab in question, but, in the past forty plus years, I am sure I have reused 95% percent of the ones I have come in contact with. Some were reused several times. The important thing to look for is cracks at the bends, if they crack don't reuse it. If you reuse them more then once it is even more important to look for cracks as the metal will start to work harden.
 

davidh

Member
i used the holding tool and turned the shaft to undo the clutch. there is nothing about replacing the nut and tab washer, i would just use your own judgment that it would re-use.

One word -- d'oh!

I can't believe I didn't think about using the holding tool instead of the adjustable wrench. What a dope :eek: . Thanks for the tip!!!
 

Motorhead

New member
Quick question: What are the symptoms of the CVT belt becoming worn out? I mean, aside from it possibly breaking.... I have 14K miles on it and it runs like new, and my riding style is very conservative and gentle.
 

davidh

Member
Quick question: What are the symptoms of the CVT belt becoming worn out? I mean, aside from it possibly breaking.... I have 14K miles on it and it runs like new, and my riding style is very conservative and gentle.

Well, yes, breaking is one symptom and one you're best to avoid. Other than that, reduced performance is to be expected but it comes on so gradually that I'm not sure anyone would notice. The belt will age due to both wear and time so replacing it at the 3-4 year or 12-16k mile mark is probably reasonable, albeit a bit conservative.
 

Motorhead

New member
OK, but can you be more specific on inferring 'reduced performance'. Does that mean slippage (other than clutch), does it mean low speed / hi speed ratios change, I'm just struggling to grasp what you mean by reduced performance. Let's assume normal engine / clutch performance.
 

davidh

Member
OK, but can you be more specific on inferring 'reduced performance'. Does that mean slippage (other than clutch), does it mean low speed / hi speed ratios change, I'm just struggling to grasp what you mean by reduced performance. Let's assume normal engine / clutch performance.

Well, I'll update my response. On smaller scooters (i.e., Vespas), you'll definitely notice a loss of top-end performance since they (specifically the 250-300cc engines) max out in the 80-85 MPH. That's pretty unlikely on a BMW unless you're cruising at 100+ MPH. Best bet it to replace it around the mileage/age recommendation.
 

moodleman

Member
This procedure is still in the future for me - 12,000 Km on the clock. Previously I owned a Yamaha T-max and the belt was replaced per service manual at 20,000 Km so I guess I will replace the one on my 650GT at 20,000 as well. But the BMW holding tool - I am guessing you can buy one from BMW but I imagine it will be redhot expensive. Is there a generic substitute for that tool?
 

SJMike

Member
This procedure is still in the future for me - 12,000 Km on the clock. Previously I owned a Yamaha T-max and the belt was replaced per service manual at 20,000 Km so I guess I will replace the one on my 650GT at 20,000 as well. But the BMW holding tool - I am guessing you can buy one from BMW but I imagine it will be redhot expensive. Is there a generic substitute for that tool?
Sorry , but there is no knock off , less expensive tool for BMW holding tool. It's the best tool for the job . Worth the $ . Trying to do the job without it is just silly thinking. I would recommend buying it from ECS Tuning online. They're the best deal . $56 + free shipping
ES#: 3110872
Mfg#: 83302414987
I really do my best to stay away from the dealer for part unless I have no choice. BMW stands for Break My Wallet unless you you can find alternatives.
If you explore you can find many of the basic items like the M5 & M6 fastener bolt on Amazon for a lot less. I bought a 20 pack of stainless steel M5 Fasteners for $12 . Dealer wants $3 each . Only difference is Amazon sells Hex head instead of Torx.
Highly recommend getting the drive belt from Europe via Ebay. BMW - $400 . Ebay $110 delivered . Same quality.


Run from the dealer unless you want to spend more $ for parts.

With some patience & watching closely how to take the plastic off ( cell phone photos are always a good idea to document disassembly ) you can do most of the work

Good luck on your learning curve ...
 
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moodleman

Member
Thanks SJMike - you and I are on the same page - avoid dealer whenever possible! On the BurgmanUSA forum, there is a complete video and text explaining exactly how to remove all the plastic fairings (to do so requires about 90 minutes! No wonder maintenance costs so much from a dealer!) - is there as similar source of information for the BMW?
 
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