C650GT Maintenance Tips

bmwben

Member
I've been doing the 12,000 mile maintenance on my 2014 C650GT and thought I'd share some of the things I've learned (and wish I knew before I started).

1. Oil Change

Changing the oil is pretty straightforward. I had to mail order the filter and 15w50 oil, but the rest was easy. The only hitch is the extra drain hole and the additional tube filter inside it. I used to have a Kymco scooter so I've seen that type of filter before. The trick is you have to be careful removing it and, especially, putting it back in or it could drop into the engine. When you do that, put a screwdriver or a socket extension or something like that into the tube and keep it in there until the tube is in place (the tube presses into in indent inside the engine). So that's my first tip.

2. Air Filter Change

The air filter is refreshingly easy to swap out. Just take off the upper right side panel, remove the filter cover, pop the old one out and pop in a new one in. No tips needed!

3. Rear Chain Drive

There is an inspection window in the side of the swinging arm you can use to check the chain tension. If it is loose, that is not a reason to buy a new chainset, replace the chain and socket, or even replace the chain. BMW sells chain rails you can use to adjust the tension. If you have the manual, they are easy to install. When I did mine I reused the swinging arm gasket, and I've had no leaks so far. The oil in there was really dirty but it is also really easy to change. There is a drain hole in the bottom of the swinging arm and a fill hole on top. My second tip is order yourself a set of chain rails and maybe a gasket just in case.

4. Variator

Doing maintenance on the belt, rollers and sliders is a pain because you to remove most of the panels on the right side of the bike plus to variator covers to access the inside of the variator. Be really careful because the tabs on the panels are easy to break and expensive to replace. You will need the 4" long torx sockets to put the cover back on and torque the bolts, as well as the variator tool BMW sells to keep things from moving, and a 33 mm socket to get the bolts off. Plus, if you have ever opened up a variator, there is something about the BMW variator that is different. You need to lubricate one of the splines with Unirex N3 grease. If there is something else besides that you can use, I don't know what it is; and if there is someone else besides BMW who sells the grease, I don't know who they are. So tip three is make sure you have the special grease (in addition to the tools, the belt, the rollers and the sliders) before you start taking the bike apart.

5. Gearbox

In addition to the chain drive and the variator, the scooter also has a gearbox that has 75w90 gear oil in it. The fill plug is not hard to access, but its way in there so you need a tube or something to squirt the oil in. The hard part is the drain; the exhaust expansion chamber blocks access to the drain plug. The manual says you have to take the right side panels off, drop the coolant tank and the radiator, and disconnect the center stand and the entire exhaust to access the drain plug. But I think you can get around that by disconnecting just the muffler (not the whole exhaust) and the center stand, which should allow the rest of the exhaust to drop down low enough to let you get to the drain plug. That's tip 4.

6. Spark Plugs

The spark plugs are behind the radiator, so you have to remove all the right side panels and drop coolant tank and the radiator to get to them. Tip 5 is think about doing the plugs when you do the variator. You don't want to take those panels apart any more than you have to.
 

bmwben

Member
I don't mean to suggest you have to do all this at 12,000 miles. You don't. I bought the scooter used and like to go through all the maintenance when I buy something used to see what the bike needs (and how it was maintained). Gearbox oil doesn't "need" to be changed, but I changed it anyway (it was black as coffee). That way I atleast know the right amount of the correct oil is in there. I also open up the variator to see the condition of the belts and rollers. If they look like crap I swap them out, even though it may not be time yet. The parts are relatively inexpensive (buy the belt from Carpimoto) compared to the cost of having something fail because the prior owner didn't take care of the scooter.

But that's just me.
 

callipygian

New member
Do you know anywhere i could see a visual of the spark plug changing and are 650 and 600s basically the same to access?
 

Greg goes wild

Active member
I've been doing the 12,000 mile maintenance on my 2014 C650GT and thought I'd share some of the things I've learned (and wish I knew before I started).

1. Oil Change

Changing the oil is pretty straightforward. I had to mail order the filter and 15w50 oil, but the rest was easy. The only hitch is the extra drain hole and the additional tube filter inside it. I used to have a Kymco scooter so I've seen that type of filter before. The trick is you have to be careful removing it and, especially, putting it back in or it could drop into the engine. When you do that, put a screwdriver or a socket extension or something like that into the tube and keep it in there until the tube is in place (the tube presses into in indent inside the engine). So that's my first tip.

2. Air Filter Change

The air filter is refreshingly easy to swap out. Just take off the upper right side panel, remove the filter cover, pop the old one out and pop in a new one in. No tips needed!

3. Rear Chain Drive

There is an inspection window in the side of the swinging arm you can use to check the chain tension. If it is loose, that is not a reason to buy a new chainset, replace the chain and socket, or even replace the chain. BMW sells chain rails you can use to adjust the tension. If you have the manual, they are easy to install. When I did mine I reused the swinging arm gasket, and I've had no leaks so far. The oil in there was really dirty but it is also really easy to change. There is a drain hole in the bottom of the swinging arm and a fill hole on top. My second tip is order yourself a set of chain rails and maybe a gasket just in case.

4. Variator

Doing maintenance on the belt, rollers and sliders is a pain because you to remove most of the panels on the right side of the bike plus to variator covers to access the inside of the variator. Be really careful because the tabs on the panels are easy to break and expensive to replace. You will need the 4" long torx sockets to put the cover back on and torque the bolts, as well as the variator tool BMW sells to keep things from moving, and a 33 mm socket to get the bolts off. Plus, if you have ever opened up a variator, there is something about the BMW variator that is different. You need to lubricate one of the splines with Unirex N3 grease. If there is something else besides that you can use, I don't know what it is; and if there is someone else besides BMW who sells the grease, I don't know who they are. So tip three is make sure you have the special grease (in addition to the tools, the belt, the rollers and the sliders) before you start taking the bike apart.

5. Gearbox

In addition to the chain drive and the variator, the scooter also has a gearbox that has 75w90 gear oil in it. The fill plug is not hard to access, but its way in there so you need a tube or something to squirt the oil in. The hard part is the drain; the exhaust expansion chamber blocks access to the drain plug. The manual says you have to take the right side panels off, drop the coolant tank and the radiator, and disconnect the center stand and the entire exhaust to access the drain plug. But I think you can get around that by disconnecting just the muffler (not the whole exhaust) and the center stand, which should allow the rest of the exhaust to drop down low enough to let you get to the drain plug. That's tip 4.

6. Spark Plugs

The spark plugs are behind the radiator, so you have to remove all the right side panels and drop coolant tank and the radiator to get to them. Tip 5 is think about doing the plugs when you do the variator. You don't want to take those panels apart any more than you have to.
Some very GOOD advice thank you for sharing on the 2016 Model i have you need to take off the lower
body panel as well to get the air filter out..
 
Last edited:

Ryno

New member
I've been doing the 12,000 mile maintenance on my 2014 C650GT and thought I'd share some of the things I've learned (and wish I knew before I started).

1. Oil Change

Changing the oil is pretty straightforward. I had to mail order the filter and 15w50 oil, but the rest was easy. The only hitch is the extra drain hole and the additional tube filter inside it. I used to have a Kymco scooter so I've seen that type of filter before. The trick is you have to be careful removing it and, especially, putting it back in or it could drop into the engine. When you do that, put a screwdriver or a socket extension or something like that into the tube and keep it in there until the tube is in place (the tube presses into in indent inside the engine). So that's my first tip.

2. Air Filter Change

The air filter is refreshingly easy to swap out. Just take off the upper right side panel, remove the filter cover, pop the old one out and pop in a new one in. No tips needed!

3. Rear Chain Drive

There is an inspection window in the side of the swinging arm you can use to check the chain tension. If it is loose, that is not a reason to buy a new chainset, replace the chain and socket, or even replace the chain. BMW sells chain rails you can use to adjust the tension. If you have the manual, they are easy to install. When I did mine I reused the swinging arm gasket, and I've had no leaks so far. The oil in there was really dirty but it is also really easy to change. There is a drain hole in the bottom of the swinging arm and a fill hole on top. My second tip is order yourself a set of chain rails and maybe a gasket just in case.

4. Variator

Doing maintenance on the belt, rollers and sliders is a pain because you to remove most of the panels on the right side of the bike plus to variator covers to access the inside of the variator. Be really careful because the tabs on the panels are easy to break and expensive to replace. You will need the 4" long torx sockets to put the cover back on and torque the bolts, as well as the variator tool BMW sells to keep things from moving, and a 33 mm socket to get the bolts off. Plus, if you have ever opened up a variator, there is something about the BMW variator that is different. You need to lubricate one of the splines with Unirex N3 grease. If there is something else besides that you can use, I don't know what it is; and if there is someone else besides BMW who sells the grease, I don't know who they are. So tip three is make sure you have the special grease (in addition to the tools, the belt, the rollers and the sliders) before you start taking the bike apart.

5. Gearbox

In addition to the chain drive and the variator, the scooter also has a gearbox that has 75w90 gear oil in it. The fill plug is not hard to access, but its way in there so you need a tube or something to squirt the oil in. The hard part is the drain; the exhaust expansion chamber blocks access to the drain plug. The manual says you have to take the right side panels off, drop the coolant tank and the radiator, and disconnect the center stand and the entire exhaust to access the drain plug. But I think you can get around that by disconnecting just the muffler (not the whole exhaust) and the center stand, which should allow the rest of the exhaust to drop down low enough to let you get to the drain plug. That's tip 4.

6. Spark Plugs

The spark plugs are behind the radiator, so you have to remove all the right side panels and drop coolant tank and the radiator to get to them. Tip 5 is think about doing the plugs when you do the variator. You don't want to take those panels apart any more than you have to.
How much oil does the rare chain drive take or what is the fill level
 

SJMike

Member
The rear chain drive take 500ml of 75W-90 GEAR oil. It would recommend anything synthetic is good . I just switched to Motul 300 75W-90 oil . Cost a bit more but it's very good . Can find it on Amazon:


Need a 6MM hex tool to open top fill hole & bottom drain plug near the rear of casing uses T-45 Torx tool . Yeah 2 different tools. Don't over tighten the fill hole. I found out the hard way it will strip out easy . Bottom drain plug has a O ring you need to save. Simple process of opening up the fill hole 1st to help oil drain easier . Best to do when oil is a bit warm for better draining. I was a glass measuring to see how much comes out. Helps confirm if enough oil was put in.

Good luck , this is easy to do ...
 

Ryno

New member
The rear chain drive take 500ml of 75W-90 GEAR oil. It would recommend anything synthetic is good . I just switched to Motul 300 75W-90 oil . Cost a bit more but it's very good . Can find it on Amazon:


Need a 6MM hex tool to open top fill hole & bottom drain plug near the rear of casing uses T-45 Torx tool . Yeah 2 different tools. Don't over tighten the fill hole. I found out the hard way it will strip out easy . Bottom drain plug has a O ring you need to save. Simple process of opening up the fill hole 1st to help oil drain easier . Best to do when oil is a bit warm for better draining. I was a glass measuring to see how much comes out. Helps confirm if enough oil was put in.

Good luck , this is easy to do ...

Thanks a million have been looking everywhere and could not find the fill volume.
 

emseedee

Member
Some good advice here, thanks.

The Grease for the variator splines is, as you say, Unirex N3. It's made by Exxon-Mobil, and (at least in the UK) is available from all the normal lubricant suppliers. Cost is about £10 UK for a 300g tube, which should grease an awful lot of splines:)
 
Last edited:

moodleman

Member
Question on C650 maintenance - my 650 is coming up to 20,000km, when as well as the oil change it is due to have a belt replacement and "roller maintenance". I have the replacement belt, and the necessary tools, and have watched a couple of videos to learn about the belt replacement. No problem. But the rollers - maintenance? what? clean them and refit? replace? and I am confused as well by the talk of rollers and sliders - the same thing? I have a workshop manual and cannot find any mention at all of rollers, except as 4 small pin-like projections inside the CVT.
 

Greg goes wild

Active member
Question on C650 maintenance - my 650 is coming up to 20,000km, when as well as the oil change it is due to have a belt replacement and "roller maintenance". I have the replacement belt, and the necessary tools, and have watched a couple of videos to learn about the belt replacement. No problem. But the rollers - maintenance? what? clean them and refit? replace? and I am confused as well by the talk of rollers and sliders - the same thing? I have a workshop manual and cannot find any mention at all of rollers, except as 4 small pin-like projections inside the CVT.
My brother cleaned the rollers on my old Silver Wing scooter n put them back in there
was no wear n tear on em.
 

moodleman

Member
My 2018 C650GT just ticked over the 20,000Km a few weeks ago, so time to do the belt change. The oil change was as other riders have said, quite easy. The belt was another level of difficulty - more tools required and a bit of time as well.

I used Delray's excellent guide to help me through the belt change. Getting all the fairings off the right hand side was a pain. But once that was done, all went smoothly. I did have a bit of trouble getting the variator cover to come off - but it turned out I had missed 2 bolts! Surprisingly easy to do!

The old belt (original) with 20,000 Km on it was AS NEW. I am 78 years old and have been dealing with V-belts of every kind for about 65 of those years, so I know what belts should look like. This one looked perfect, easily another 20,000 on it. But, I had already bought and paid for a new Mitsuboshi so I put it on. Also replaced the BMW rollers in the variator with Dr Pulley sliders, simple to do. The rollers looked unworn to my ignorant eyes, but same as the belt, I already had the sliders so put them in.

Reassembly was no trouble. I borrowed a torque wrench from a friend - the one I own is only good for about 30 Nm, so I needed a big serious wrench for the variator and clutch retaining nuts. His torque wrench was right-hand only, but it is a very simple modification to turn the torque wrench mechanism inside-out to cope with a left-hand thread.

Then the pain of the replacement of the fairings. Took a while. I did my best but still have ended up with 4 retaining screws left over. I hope I do not find out where they were supposed to go when a fairing blows off at highway speed!
 

moodleman

Member
See my earlier post - transmission belt in perfect condition at 20,000 Km. Obviously the wear on this belt would depend to some extent on the way the bike is ridden. My riding is mostly cruising, open road or freeway at about 100 to 110 Km/hr. Very little riding in heavy traffic. Even so, I was astonished that there was NO visible wear or damage. Even the feel of the belt - stiffness, edges - was exactly the same as the new one I then installed. So yes, I would say leave it until 20,000 miles - unless you ride it really hard.
 
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