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Engine stalling when slowing - test idle control device?

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emseedee

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Recently, my 2013 C650GT has started to stall when slowing down to a halt after a fast-ish run. My first thoughts were the idle actuator hoses, as replacing them seems to have fixed a similar problem for others, but I've had them out, cleaned and checked them - they looked as good as new. I'm wondering - could it be the idle actuator device itself? Does anyone know how I might test it? I have MotoScan, but there doesn't seem to be an option to activate it.

TIA

Mike
 
Check the two vacuum lines going to the idle control. They get old and crack. Three years ago the ones on my 2013 looked like a cat had clawed them. Engine stalled every time I stopped at a light or stop sign. The lines were only $13.00 apiece then but had to wait for them to come from Germany. Also the labor was about $250.00.
 
mjnorris said:
Check the two vacuum lines going to the idle control. They get old and crack. Three years ago the ones on my 2013 looked like a cat had clawed them. Engine stalled every time I stopped at a light or stop sign. The lines were only $13.00 apiece then but had to wait for them to come from Germany. Also the labor was about $250.00.
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Yes, I'd read about that. I've had them out, wiped them clean, and there was no sign of cracking. I'd rather hoped that would be the problem, but it seems that something else is to blame.
 
emseedee said:
Recently, my 2013 C650GT has started to stall when slowing down to a halt after a fast-ish run. My first thoughts were the idle actuator hoses, as replacing them seems to have fixed a similar problem for others, but I've had them out, cleaned and checked them - they looked as good as new. I'm wondering - could it be the idle actuator device itself? Does anyone know how I might test it? I have MotoScan, but there doesn't seem to be an option to activate it.

TIA

Mike
Click to expand...
I've been having the exact same problem for a few weeks. I have to keep tweaking the throttle until I come to standstill, otherwise the engine cuts out. There's also an idle control device somewhere on there apparently: https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/idlecontrol755.htm

Does this going out have any relationship to the aforementioned problem?
 
ElwinNL said:
I've been having the exact same problem for a few weeks. I have to keep tweaking the throttle until I come to standstill, otherwise the engine cuts out. There's also an idle control device somewhere on there apparently: https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/idlecontrol755.htm

Does this going out have any relationship to the aforementioned problem?
Click to expand...
I've thought about the idle control device, but my current line of investigation has moved to the ignition coils. Last time I took the bike out it started misfiring quite badly, and Motoscan says there is a problem with Ignition Coil 2. I've taken the coils out and they look OK, as do their connections, so I think I'm going to replace one. If I'm getting a weak spark, that could cause idling issues.

As far as the idle control device, I will be testing this - there seems to be an option on Motoscan to open and close the valve. I can hear something moving when I exercise it, but I plan to remove it while I've got the beast apart, and make sure that t really is working. If it is dead, I would expect that the engine wouldn't idle properly, but I'd also expect that the ECU would report a trouble code, which isn't happening.

The idle control device is mounted on the airbox, and is accessed from the front of the bike once you've removed the radiator protection baffle. You can easily spot it - it's got 10mm diameter rubber hoses coming out of it and disappearing back towards the fuel injectors.
 
emseedee said:
I've thought about the idle control device, but my current line of investigation has moved to the ignition coils. Last time I took the bike out it started misfiring quite badly, and Motoscan says there is a problem with Ignition Coil 2. I've taken the coils out and they look OK, as do their connections, so I think I'm going to replace one. If I'm getting a weak spark, that could cause idling issues.

As far as the idle control device, I will be testing this - there seems to be an option on Motoscan to open and close the valve. I can hear something moving when I exercise it, but I plan to remove it while I've got the beast apart, and make sure that t really is working. If it is dead, I would expect that the engine wouldn't idle properly, but I'd also expect that the ECU would report a trouble code, which isn't happening.

The idle control device is mounted on the airbox, and is accessed from the front of the bike once you've removed the radiator protection baffle. You can easily spot it - it's got 10mm diameter rubber hoses coming out of it and disappearing back towards the fuel injectors.
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I've solved mine in the mean time. It was a cracked hose. Also, I read that high idling would sooner be caused by a broken idle control device and stalling by lack of under-pressure due to cracked hoses.

Best of luck!
 
I had the same issue, the problem was the throttle body. The mechanic advised that there was a small play therefore the stalling issue. I have now replaced it and it is working almost fine, just needs a minor adjustment to the throttle position sensor ( which is attached to the throttle body left side )

Hope this solves it as it was a headache for many people
 
I had an occasional rough/surging idle (only happened twice or three times) and in my case it seems to have been one of the two small idle actuator hoses. The one I replaced was torn and had a fairly significant air leak.

So, it seems there are quite a few potential causes for poor idle/stalling:
- ignition coils
- throttle body
- bad idle control device
- bad fuse connection
 
Info on the aforementioned idle actuator hoses I copied for my files from a thead on this forum ....

IDLE ACTUATOR HOSES – ISSUE WITH 2013’S STALLING

“When going > 30 MPH and coming to a stop, the engine stalls. I can restart it without any issue but it's certainly less than desirable.”

“Same thing, when coming to a stop; the idle drops (around 15 mph) and it stalls. Consistently. On the way back home I had the emissions light come on which had never happened before.”

“The dealer charged me $540 to replace an O2 sensor but the stalling problem persisted. I dropped it off at the new shop this morning and while I was there, started it up and he said (after hearing all the symptoms and listening to it), "sounds like an air leak..." Well, he called about hour later and said, sure enough, there was a split in one of the two idle actuator hoses (p/n: 01 13 71 7 725 265). It's only a $21 part and would explain all the other clues, including wonky readings from the original O2 sensor.”

“I took mine back to the shop and asked them to check those hoses and found both of them cracked. Parts were only twenty apiece but two and a half hours labor. But it did fix the problem. That is why I read these posts.”

“They’re called idle actuator hoses. You can easily see one end at the front of the engine on each side, maybe 4 to 5 inches in front of the variator.”

“My scoot would stop one time and idle at 3,000 rpm, the next time would idle so low the engine would stall and you never knew what was coming. If you slowed very gradually everything seemed normal, but I had it stall a time or two leaving a stop. Only going through these symptoms so you know what to look for, it typically doesn't happen all at once and when it starts going you have a little time to order the hoses.”

“They plug into the air "muffler" just above and behind the spark plugs, are routed in between the throttle bodies and plug into the engine at the 90 degree bend. You could "probably" get by with the correct size hose and route it yourself but it's formed like this to make sure all cables and linkages are not
interfered with.”

1713989280230.png
 
Checked all of this stuff (had both hoses off and examined them in detail), and it all seemed in good order. But replaced one of the coil packs, and the bike was much improved, although still not running perfectly.
 
Just got back from a couple of weeks away, and the bike refused to start. Motoscan reported faults with injectors, coils and oxygen sensor, which all seemed to much to happen at the same time, so I started thinking about other possible causes. As a starting point, I unplugged the main ECU and gave both sides of the connector a good squirt of contact cleaner before putting it together, and the bike started first time. Haven't had time to test ride it yet, but I'm optimistic, as it's the first thing I've done that's produced such a clear effect.
 
Has cleaning the ECU fixed your problem?
I also have stalling issue in my 2013 C600 sport. I get code 2767 Oxygen Sensor 1. I replaced intake hoses, checked all other and everything seems to look fine. I cannot find any info about this code, but probably about mixture too lean.
 

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Malish said:
Has cleaning the ECU fixed your problem?
I also have stalling issue in my 2013 C600 sport. I get code 2767 Oxygen Sensor 1. I replaced intake hoses, checked all other and everything seems to look fine. I cannot find any info about this code, but probably about mixture too lean.
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Did you try replacing the oxygen sensor, or at least checking the connection/wiring to it?
 
I did check the wiring and its ok. The funny thing is that the problem is gone so far as I have used 98 petrol. I do not believe it was caused by petrol so I left the bike in workshop today
 
If the error comes back I would look at replacing the O2 sensor, its proper functioning is very important to the engine's functioning. Once a year running a good injector cleaner through the system is also a good idea, in general.
 
I picked up a 2013 model about 15 months ago. Couldn't resist it as the price was so low. It had a bit or work done on the variator and drive gear so that's all good.

Had the bike in storage for the last 11 months as I took a break overseas.

It was having this same issue before leaving NZ and managed to get 2 new stick coils while in Thailand. I installed them yesterday in the hope it would sort the idle/stalling problem.

No go. It was rough as guts so I put the old coils back in. The new coils caused misfiring big time. I'm also running iridium plugs which are great.

I noticed that when the bike was warming up, it ran smoothly. Once warmed it it became a bit lumpy and would stall. It now always stalls at lights unless I feather the throttle.

I can handle that but it's a pita to be honest. Acceleration is still very good but idle is terrible once warmed up.

Maybe I'll order those hoses and see if that helps.

Local bike shop says valve shims may need checking. What do you guys think?
 
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