C 400 GT: Anyone Added Front Lights?

[wspollack]

I took delivery of a new C 400 GT back in June. I've posted about my adding Skene lights in the rear (and some other mods, such as external USB and Powerlet outlets, a garage-door opener, as well as a few other lesser mods).

My question now is about adding additional lighting in the front, which I'm thinking about. If anyone's done this, I'm not interested so much in what particular lighting as I am about the wiring: how was it routed, where was the power tapped, that sort of thing.

Recall, if anyone's skimming posts: I'm talking about a late-model 400 here, not any of the 650 variants, as the bigger and older bikes have been farkled much more over the years, but are pretty much different animals.

Thanks.

 

[byee]

I’ve added Ridgid Ignites to my C400GT - spots and floods.

I made my own power distribution unit (PDU) using a waterproof Panasonic relay which gets triggered when the bike is running.

I chose the Panasonic relay because of its size vs Bosch. Here’s the relay I bought

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/panasonic-electric-works/CA1A-12V-N-5/4758133

The PDU powers 2 digital flip flops for the lights. I used flip flop triggers because I wanted to use a momentary push button switch. I also wanted the lights to default to off after the bike is powered off. A standard switch will always default to the switch position

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005003047429053.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.72469sZ49sZ4hX&browser_id=e9de64db18644034b81558f93daa9f8b&aff_trace_key=3798e09e09334d98b83b3b0fbd486e5e-1652333373217-07814-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=lgcog2fodrkcawy0183393165e44e280ea71991a54&gclid=&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21CAD%213.51%212.67%21%21%211.83%21%21%402103399116631118824042645e97fd%2112000023431009268%21sea&curPageLogUid=XFPLCvCUZItq&algo_pvid=c82afec9-b6ec-44d8-abcb-93aa159f5f1e

I’m also using small IP67 waterproof push buttons mounted on polycarbonate sandwiched between the BMW wonderwheel and switch pod. You can easily design and print the push button switch pod using a 3D printer instead of machining polycarbonate

Here’s a link to the waterproof push button switches. I don’t have any issues pushing the buttons with gloves on with the push button caps installed.

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/c-k/KSC921J-LFS/3533874

 

[wspollack]

@byee :

Thank you very much for the info, and for your time and effort.

That's a very impressive and comprehensive setup you have there. And I had never heard of flip-flop latch switches, but the concept -- your desire for "off" as a default -- makes sense to me.

My plans are much more modest, especially because I haven't ridden in the dark for a decade or so. (I know, I could be considered a wimp, but I only do daylight riding, even for my multi-day, out-of-town, trips. I don't like the increase in deer and drunks, the increased difficulty of spotting edge traps and oil slicks at night, and it's colder, and at 74 I'm usually too tired to be riding that long in one day anymore.)

My current plan is just to add some yellow Photon Boosters for conspicuity:

Skene Lights Online Store

Online ordering for all Skene Lights visibility lighting products including the P3, Photon Blaster, IQ-275 dimmers, LED modules and more.

www.skenelights.com

I won't even have a switch for them, i.e., on all the time. I've already installed Skene P3-TS running/brake/signal lights (www.skenelights.com/online-store/Rear-Visibility-Systems-c22720602) out back, which, like my planned front work, don't have any switch.

But I will need to add a relay or a PDU of some sort. I'm leaning toward Eastern Beaver's PC-8; I've used two of those, on prior bikes, and consider it a good quality unit:

PC-8 - Eastern Beaver Inc

The PC-8 fuse box manufactured to the highest standards. 6 switched and 2 un-switched outputs. Compact size and high power capacity.

easternbeaver.com

Now, to some additional questions I have for you, if you have a minute or two:

1) Did you use the brake lines as attachment guides for the wires from your added lights? And I've had the front tupperware off once, but I wasn't paying attention to that area: where do the lines wind up, as they enter the dash area?

2) Where did you put your PDU? Are you using one of the two little dash storage cubbies for this (something I've done on my two former Burgman scooters), or put this someplace else?

3) I see that you used a longer bolt and a spacer, from outside the plastic that holds the front reflector. I took out that screw the other day, and noticed that it has a shoulder area, so that the plastic at the bottom of that, um, "well" isn't squashed down as the screw is tightened:



I'm assuming that your longer bolt or spacer doesn't have that shoulder, so my question here is whether mushing down the bottom-of-the-well plastic was a concern to you?

4) I'm currently planning on instead using a right-angle bracket, to go from the inside out, so to speak, to hold the Photon Boosters. That is, put the bracket between the bottom of the plastic well and the metal female fork receptacle, still using that original screw. Something like this, in terms of angles (the pieces are only to show the right angle, as a real bracket will be much smaller, and metal, etc.):





You have thoughts about using an "inside-out" bracket like that?

Once again, thank you for your time, help, and sharing your setup. If you're curious about the mods I've done on my new C 400 GT thus far, I have pretty thorough documentation -- pics and captions -- in my gallery https://www.billanddot.com/C400GT/ .

 

[byee]

@byee :

Thank you very much for the info, and for your time and effort.

That's a very impressive and comprehensive setup you have there. And I had never heard of flip-flop latch switches, but the concept -- your desire for "off" as a default -- makes sense to me.

My plans are much more modest, especially because I haven't ridden in the dark for a decade or so. (I know, I could be considered a wimp, but I only do daylight riding, even for my multi-day, out-of-town, trips. I don't like the increase in deer and drunks, the increased difficulty of spotting edge traps and oil slicks at night, and it's colder, and at 74 I'm usually too tired to be riding that long in one day anymore.)

My current plan is just to add some yellow Photon Boosters for conspicuity:

Skene Lights Online Store

Online ordering for all Skene Lights visibility lighting products including the P3, Photon Blaster, IQ-275 dimmers, LED modules and more.

www.skenelights.com

I won't even have a switch for them, i.e., on all the time. I've already installed Skene P3-TS running/brake/signal lights (www.skenelights.com/online-store/Rear-Visibility-Systems-c22720602) out back, which, like my planned front work, don't have any switch.

But I will need to add a relay or a PDU of some sort. I'm leaning toward Eastern Beaver's PC-8; I've used two of those, on prior bikes, and consider it a good quality unit:

PC-8 - Eastern Beaver Inc

The PC-8 fuse box manufactured to the highest standards. 6 switched and 2 un-switched outputs. Compact size and high power capacity.

easternbeaver.com

Now, to some additional questions I have for you, if you have a minute or two:

1) Did you use the brake lines as attachment guides for the wires from your added lights? And I've had the front tupperware off once, but I wasn't paying attention to that area: where do the lines wind up, as they enter the dash area?

2) Where did you put your PDU? Are you using one of the two little dash storage cubbies for this (something I've done on my two former Burgman scooters), or put this someplace else?

3) I see that you used a longer bolt and a spacer, from outside the plastic that holds the front reflector. I took out that screw the other day, and noticed that it has a shoulder area, so that the plastic at the bottom of that, um, "well" isn't squashed down as the screw is tightened:

View attachment 3492

I'm assuming that your longer bolt or spacer doesn't have that shoulder, so my question here is whether mushing down the bottom-of-the-well plastic was a concern to you?

4) I'm currently planning on instead using a right-angle bracket, to go from the inside out, so to speak, to hold the Photon Boosters. That is, put the bracket between the bottom of the plastic well and the metal female fork receptacle, still using that original screw. Something like this, in terms of angles (the pieces are only to show the right angle, as a real bracket will be much smaller, and metal, etc.):

View attachment 3493

View attachment 3494

You have thoughts about using an "inside-out" bracket like that?

Once again, thank you for your time, help, and sharing your setup. If you're curious about the mods I've done on my new C 400 GT thus far, I have pretty thorough documentation -- pics and captions -- in my gallery https://www.billanddot.com/C400GT/ .

1) Did you use the brake lines as attachment guides for the wires from your added lights? And I've had the front tupperware off once, but I wasn't paying attention to that area: where do the lines wind up, as they enter the dash area?

I did zap strapped the wires to brake lines at the front of the bike.

2) Where did you put your PDU? Are you using one of the two little dash storage cubbies for this (something I've done on my two former Burgman scooters), or put this someplace else?

I put the PDU behind the passive key antenna just above the battery. The Panasonic relay is pretty small even with the mini blade fuse holders.

3) I see that you used a longer bolt and a spacer, from outside the plastic that holds the front reflector. I took out that screw the other day, and noticed that it has a shoulder area, so that the plastic at the bottom of that, um, "well" isn't squashed down as the screw is tightened:

I machined the spacers with shoulders for my lights on my Sherline lathe.

4) Skene Lights - Yellow Photon Boosters

I installed these shortly after I purchased my C400GT --> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002160063690.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.542d73ac7xkX3i&algo_pvid=86de5df7-c308-410e-b310-b8c2935536fb&algo_exp_id=86de5df7-c308-410e-b310-b8c2935536fb-11&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id":"12000018916300418"}&pdp_npi=2@dis!CAD!21.45!15.01!!!!!@210318cb16632920805788709eacbc!12000018916300418!sea&curPageLogUid=MsOFblrVfSTf

5) Flip Flop Latches

I prefer the flip flop latches because they consume no current to keep latched. I find mechanical relays shatter which caused lights to flicker.

6) https://www.billanddot.com/C400GT/

I have visited your site on many occasions. We need more people like yourself posting.

Thank you for setting up the site to share your mods.

I'm not sure if you've viewed my post of all the mods to my C400GT a year ago
- Ignite Lights
- AltRider luggage rack with the Givi option
- LED side markers
- recently added Wunderlich GPS mount
- I just designed a sunshade for the TFT which you can print on any 3D printer using PLA
- upgraded rear shocks to YSS

 

[wspollack]

@byee :

Thank you very much again for your response and your time.

I have just spent some quality time going over most of your posts. I had forgotten that it was you, for instance, who posted about those rear shocks. That's an upgrade that I'm planning on doing this winter; it looks easy enough for a DIY project. I only wish that replacing the front suspension were that easy and this cheap. For me -- about 210 lbs., mostly solo riding -- I find both the front and rear very unforgiving when hitting sharp bumps -- I think the term is "square-edged" -- such as the higher joints between pavement sections.

==> Can the shock replacement be done with the bike on the centerstand, i.e., you don't need any special lift, or scissor jack, or anything like that, right?

And I discovered your post ...

BMW C400GT Mods - Aux lights / Side Markers / Givi Box

Here are some of the mods I’ve done to my C400GT Added Rigid Ignite auxiliary lights - flood and spot pattern. Dual mode - high and low modes. Replaced the stock side marker reflector with LED side markers. Added a Givi v47 monokey box using an AltRider luggage plate.

www.bmw-scooters.com

... in which you showed a pic of your light-mounting system, with the shoulder area. Since I posted above, I've decided to go the "outside" route that you did, i.e., use the "well" area in that plastic piece; this will make a slightly larger light triangle. I don't have a lathe, so I'll look for some small spacers that are the same OD as the shoulder portion of the stock screw.

==> Do you happen to recall whether that screw has a standard M5 or M6 thread?

I'll have to get some measurements from Skene, to see if some of their cylinder-like mounts will fit in that recess okay in the stock plastic. Take a look at ...

Skene Lights Online Store

Online ordering for all Skene Lights visibility lighting products including the P3, Photon Blaster, IQ-275 dimmers, LED modules and more.

www.skenelights.com

... to see what I'm talking about.

==> I like your side-marker LEDs, of course, but I'm a little surprised that you haven't added any rear-facing lighting, such as the Skene (or similar) running/braking/signal LEDs that I put on. It looks to me like you and I think fairly alike, in terms of what farkles need to be done to a stock bike, and I've added that sort of rear conspicuity enhancement to all my bikes for many years now (trying my best not to get rear-ended at stop lights, for instance).

Thanks for the comments on my site. If I'm going to do a project, I generally take a few minutes more to take some pics, provide some links and explanations, and so forth, in the hope that I'm providing enough info for someone else who might want to tackle it the same way. Kind of pay it forward, because I've been helped by a lot of folks on bike forums over the years.

 

[wspollack]

...
I made my own power distribution unit (PDU) using a waterproof Panasonic relay which gets triggered when the bike is running.
...

Hi, me again, bringing back this thread.

I am planning on getting around to this work one of these weeks, and have a question on your work:

==> What (and where) did you tap into, to use as the trigger for your relay setup?

I'm trying to figure out how I would actually wire up the front Skene lights (which I bought, but, obviously, haven't installed yet.

Thanks for your help, and for your time.

 

[byee]

Sorry for the delayed response. Busy working on the house.

I soldered a 24 gauge wire to the outside leg of one of the fuses as a trigger.

I then drilled a 1/16” hole into the fuse cover to run the wire out to trigger my PDU.

I hope you found the info helpful

 

[wspollack]

Sorry for the delayed response. Busy working on the house.

I soldered a 24 gauge wire to the outside leg of one of the fuses as a trigger.

I then drilled a 1/16” hole into the fuse cover to run the wire out to trigger my PDU.

I hope you found the info helpful

Excellent -- thank you!

 

[mzflorida]

Sorry for the delayed response. Busy working on the house.

I soldered a 24 gauge wire to the outside leg of one of the fuses as a trigger.

I then drilled a 1/16” hole into the fuse cover to run the wire out to trigger my PDU.

I hope you found the info helpful

That is actually really clever. I've never seen that before and it makes a lot of sense.

 

[Prozac the Cat]

I took delivery of a new C 400 GT back in June. I've posted about my adding Skene lights in the rear (and some other mods, such as external USB and Powerlet outlets, a garage-door opener, as well as a few other lesser mods).

My question now is about adding additional lighting in the front, which I'm thinking about. If anyone's done this, I'm not interested so much in what particular lighting as I am about the wiring: how was it routed, where was the power tapped, that sort of thing.

Recall, if anyone's skimming posts: I'm talking about a late-model 400 here, not any of the 650 variants, as the bigger and older bikes have been farkled much more over the years, but are pretty much different animals.

Thanks.

Don't know if anyone posting or reading here now. Just installed some lights with Angel eyes to the front of my new (well new to me C400GT). Thanks for the pics and the tip regarding the connector under the handlebar cowling. Ordered a part from eBay, clipped in and this powers the lights. I will when the weather is warmer here in the UK run from the high beam to the centre of these lights. But gives me the added visibility for now. I used some off the self straight metal strips with 4 holes pre drilled, used a handheld electric multitool with a cutting disc to cut the strip down, then round off the edges and mounted behind the front mudguard bolt but eh brake calibers and bent the metal to for an 'L' shape. simple process for a DIY'er. then wired up following the brake lines and into the SATNAV port. Simple. The angle of the forks and camera make them look uneven, but they are level

 

[wspollack]

That is actually really clever. I've never seen that before and it makes a lot of sense.

My soldering skills are such that I don't really trust using solder for anything.

For anyone reading this older thread, and interested in the topic, I wound up using the sat nav plug to power my front Skene LEDs (and this could also used to trigger a fuse panel device, if it doesn't matter that it retains power for 60 seconds after the bike is shut down).

I have about 20 pics and captions in my gallery detailing the Skene front add-on, starting with this particular image:

2023 BMW C 400 GT

billanddot.com

 

[Prozac the Cat]

My soldering skills are such that I don't really trust using solder for anything.

For anyone reading this older thread, and interested in the topic, I wound up using the sat nav plug to power my front Skene LEDs (and this could also used to trigger a fuse panel device, if it doesn't matter that it retains power for 60 seconds after the bike is shut down).

I have about 20 pics and captions in my gallery detailing the Skene front add-on, starting with this particular image:

2023 BMW C 400 GT

billanddot.com

Any ideas on the best way to tap into the high beam? And thank you, was your post that lead me to the Sat Nav port for power.

 

[wspollack]

Any ideas on the best way to tap into the high beam? And thank you, was your post that lead me to the Sat Nav port for power.

You're welcome, re the sat nav. And it was someone else here -- I think it was @byee -- in some older thread, who alerted me to that typically unused source of power. So what goes around comes around.

Regarding tapping into the high beam circuit: sorry, no idea. I just did some browsing through the shop manual on this, and nothing jumped out at me, either.