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2020 BMW C650GT windshield not working

I would start with checking the wiring, connectors. Wiggle them as you press the switch to raise the windshield, see if that does anything.

It would also be good if you can check for any fault codes in the bike's ECU, using for example the Motoscan app.
 
If the system is anything like the bigger BMWs there are two grey relays that operate the screen. One controls the up movement and one controls the down movement. Again, on the bigger bikes, these are under the panel immediately under the screen. If you can get to these relays, swap them over - if the screen will then go up, then the original up relay is faulty
 
Glad you got it sorted. Was the $102 for a new battery or a used ecu? I don’t know how flattening the battery could cause the problem though - although it seems to have done. If that were the case, you would get the (or other) problem(s) each time you disconnected the battery for any reason.
 
Keithh said:
Glad you got it sorted. Was the $102 for a new battery or a used ecu? I don’t know how flattening the battery could cause the problem though - although it seems to have done. If that were the case, you would get the (or other) problem(s) each time you disconnected the battery for any reason.
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That was just to reflash the CPU. They say it is common. He said to put a charge through the cigarette lighter in the cubby and this way the CPU has constant power.
 
PaulyB said:
That was just to reflash the CPU. They say it is common.
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I've added pigtail connectors to C 650 GT's for battery tenders. First thing I do before I loosen the nuts on the battery is strap the positive and negative cables down FIRMLY with electrician's tape. That way, when I loosen the nuts to slip the pigtail connectors on the posts, the ECU has power and won't kill the windscreen function.
 
PaulyB said:
They say the CPU holds a 10-15 min memory??
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Don't know who "they" is, but that may have some truth to it. On one of my pigtail connections, the positive cable came loose. Had to be disconnected for three or four minutes, but ... voila, the windscreen still worked. Sounds like from my experience and what you're saying, there's at least a five-minute window to install a new battery without killing the windscreen.
 
Delray said:
I've added pigtail connectors to C 650 GT's for battery tenders. First thing I do before I loosen the nuts on the battery is strap the positive and negative cables down FIRMLY with electrician's tape. That way, when I loosen the nuts to slip the pigtail connectors on the posts, the ECU has power and won't kill the windscreen function.
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If you're EXTREMELY careful -- which I guess you are -- I suppose your system works.

The issue with that method -- specifically, leaving the main ground connected -- is that if you then mess with the positive terminal, in your case, for instance, adding something new to the terminals, and your screwdriver or ratchet were to touch a frame member while loosening or tightening the hot/positive terminal, you would have a sparks-flying, potentially high-amp tool-welding short-circuit.

I've done a LOT of electrical farkling -- it's my favorite hobby when messing with bikes -- on eight bikes over the last 28 years, and I've ALWAYS disconnected anything on the negative/ground battery terminal first (and reconnected it last), and then slip a big piece of heat-shrink tubing (unheated) on that lead, so if it flops down it won't make contact. The point is to not be in the short-circuit scenario above, if a tool happens to touch the frame when working with the hot/positive terminal.

By the way, If you don't want to go all out, i.e., adding a fuse block, instead you might be interested in Powerlet's beefy and well-designed Termin-8:

Termin-8 Eight Device Inline Fuseblock - Powerlet Products

Fuse blocks are mounted to the vehicle.
www.powerlet.com www.powerlet.com

You only have to mess with battery terminals once, and after that you get to add up to four always-on devices (such as a port for smart-charging or heated gear) without messing with the battery. On top of that, if you first just pull the Termin-8's fuse beforehand, everything connected to it, e.g., while you're adding something new, does not have any juice. I've used this on a couple of minimally-farkled bikes now, and recommend it in such situations.

Just my two or three cents here ...
 
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