racedogs
New member
Has anyone replaced the final drive fluid yet? If so what fluid did you use, any hints on the process? I'm the kind that changes fluids way too often and always change to synthetics.
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Changing final drive oil/lube
- Thread starter racedogs
- Start date
Kompact
New member
Would like an answer to this as well, can't seem to find that info anywhere. I assume the standard 75w90 gear oil is fine but want to make sure before I have at it. Also, what is the quantity it requires?
Snowdog
New member
I changed mine, and the manual calls for SAF-XO Castrol gear oil which you can get at most auto parts stores.
500 ML for the swing arm.
500 ML for the swing arm.
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Kompact
New member
Excellent, thanks.
justscootin
Active member
It will be 75w90 synthetic gear oil in Canada get it at Canadian Tire (you may have to ask at the counter) it comes in a gold container
Drain plug on bottom filler on top.
I did mine at 28,000km when I went to stage 2 of the chain adjuster.
I also noticed that when I drained it out there was 700ml, 200 over there own specs.
Drain plug on bottom filler on top.
I did mine at 28,000km when I went to stage 2 of the chain adjuster.
I also noticed that when I drained it out there was 700ml, 200 over there own specs.
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Kompact
New member
Funny, that was the exact stuff I got at the CT down the road from me.
To my horror there was maybe 100ml of oil in mine when I opened it up. Turns out I have a leak. Bought the bike used. Runs great, doesn't make any unusual noises so I think I'm ok. Now I have to figure out how to fix the leak before I can ride.
To my horror there was maybe 100ml of oil in mine when I opened it up. Turns out I have a leak. Bought the bike used. Runs great, doesn't make any unusual noises so I think I'm ok. Now I have to figure out how to fix the leak before I can ride.
exavid
Member
What is leaking? Is it the chain case seam?
Snowdog
New member
When they first came out some people did have a chain case leak. I found the bolts a little loose on mine.
Kompact
New member
I ended up just taking it it to the shop. To my surprise the dealer was really fair and gave me an awesome deal. I purchased the bike a few weeks back on the used market and have never had any dealing with my local BMW dealer. They gave me such excellent service that they have earned my business in the future. The work order says they replaced:
1x Gasket
1x O-ring
1x Sealing Ring
.5L SAF-XO gear oil
Total for parts and labor ..... $62.23 + taxes.
I was expecting to get soaked and instead they have earned my repeat business and good word of mouth.
1x Gasket
1x O-ring
1x Sealing Ring
.5L SAF-XO gear oil
Total for parts and labor ..... $62.23 + taxes.
I was expecting to get soaked and instead they have earned my repeat business and good word of mouth.
davidh
Member
Wow, might be worth a trip to Canada
. My dealer won't barely look at the bike for <$100 much less do any service. You got a keeper there!!!
exavid
Member
Very good price, it cost me $50US for the case gasket alone.
Snowdog
New member
You don't need to change that gasket just for a chain housing oil change.
hardright
Member
How much oil to put after draining it. Is there like a dipstick for this part of the bike? Thanks.
justscootin
Active member
justscootin
Active member
This rear drive oil does not need to be changed until you replace the chain adjuster.
And this will be at about 20-25000 km
And this will be at about 20-25000 km
hardright
Member
Thanks much Justscootin. That will be quite awhile then. Am still at 5500kms.
hardright
Member
Thanks Justscootin. But how do you know if there's enough gear oil in there? Me thinks to just change the gear oil. Fluid is cheap.
Thom Davis
Member
David, we get soaked in N. CA for everything. We paid for bridges built a century ago and they still charge us five bucks to go across (when I moved here a trip across the bridge was under fifty cents). Oh well, what can't be cured...
davidh
Member
500ml. No dipstick. The BMW bottle is 1L so it's exactly half a bottle. It's not a bad idea to remove the cover and check chain tension and look for any broken bits (sprocket parts) while you're in there. Replacing the chain or chainset looks to be a PITA but replacing the tensioner is quick and easy.
exavid
Member
Just changed the oil and filter on my bike at 11,600mi. Looked at the chain and it's slack is just fine, the chain oil level is good and the fluid looks like it just came out of the can. Brake discs and pads are very lightly worn. Some darkening in the rear brake reservoir window, I'll flush and change both soon. All in all the bike is holding up well, no odd sounds, rides and handles better than it did when I got it. That's not too surprising since it only had 69 miles on it when I bought it.
Looks like I'm going to have to replace the rear tire soon, it's on its second rear and third front tire now. I can't gripe about that I do ride it pretty hard. I've replaced those little wear studs down on by the centerstand twice now and they're looking pretty well ground down again. The make good road feelers, when you hear or feel them grinding on the pavement you might be pushing you luck in that curve. It helps that I keep the springs set to their most firm ride.
Looks like I'm going to have to replace the rear tire soon, it's on its second rear and third front tire now. I can't gripe about that I do ride it pretty hard. I've replaced those little wear studs down on by the centerstand twice now and they're looking pretty well ground down again. The make good road feelers, when you hear or feel them grinding on the pavement you might be pushing you luck in that curve. It helps that I keep the springs set to their most firm ride.