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Check chain sag?

I removed the black inspection plate on the swing arm to see the chain. I see a arrow and above that says max. I picked the chain up with a screwdriver and the bottom of it is even with the arrow. That is with the bike on the center stand and rear wheel in the air. Just looking through the sight without touching the chain the center of the chain is even with the arrow. Not sure how to check it?
 
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If the bottom of the chain goes above the arrow you need a thicker chain tensioner, the manual says check in a few locations. If you do not have the arrow (like mine) 15mm deflection is allowed.

About $27 in the states
I do not know in Canada yet

I have 24,000km (15,000 miles) and will be replacing my tensioner soon as I opened my scooter for the first time just now and it is now really close.
 
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So am I doing it correct by leaving the bike on the center stand? Is it correct to pick up on the chain with a screwdriver or should I push down on it?
 
03 *33 35 8 533 983 *CHAIN RAIL - STAGE 1 0.18* 1 * $26.29
03 *33 35 8 533 984 *CHAIN RAIL - STAGE 2 0.20* 1 * $26.29
03 *33 35 8 533 985 *CHAIN RAIL - STAGE 3 0.20* 1 * $26.29
03 *33 35 8 543 854 *CHAIN RAIL - STAGE 4 0.24* 1 * $26.29

These are the part numbers and prices off max BMW's Web Site. I would assume we start at stage 1 so I would look at stage 2
 
Just did my running in service on the C650 sport.
Chain sag measures bottom of chain is at arrow indicating adjustment required. Adjustment needed in only 600 miles
I'll order stage 2 and keep an eye on it, we'll see.
 
There are some screw seals you might want to have , if only because you loose one, or they are munged up. Look at the parts drawing. Also get the gasket, as it would be annoying to have the housing leak. And make sure your torx bits are correct for the drain and fill bolts as they are very shallow.
The floor in my shed swallows hardware, I like to have extras of anything you can't get at the auto parts store.
 
I used my old gasket with a small bead of ultra blue gasket maker on both casting faces never leaks.
I used this stuff when I restored my Isetta in 1997. The car also had a chain drive in an oil bath

Snowdog said:
There are some screw seals you might want to have , if only because you loose one, or they are munged up. Look at the parts drawing. Also get the gasket, as it would be annoying to have the housing leak. And make sure your torx bits are correct for the drain and fill bolts as they are very shallow.
The floor in my shed swallows hardware, I like to have extras of anything you can't get at the auto parts store.
Click to expand...
 
I just finished the chain adjustment, uneventful.
Stage 2 put the chain in spec. I used the BMW oil which is C-SAF-XO 75/90
Only suggestion I would have is be careful putting the cover on so you don't damage the oil seal.
I used an inch pound torque wrench for the hardware.
Time start to finish is an hour.
If you are doing the running in service and the chain does not require adjustment I would still recommend changing the oil.
The oil that came out of mine was really dirty and the drain plug was filled with fluff.

This finished the running in service, only thing I can add with the oil change is to put the filter screen in the plug. It will hold it and align for installation. The front screen was replaced with the pick up pipe, this one will require installing the pipe before the plug because of the alignment notch.

I'll finish by saying this machine is the most fun, to date, that I've had on two wheels.
Glad I bought one.
 
Keep the stage 1 adjuster as when you look at it closely it does not show any wear. When you hit the 60,000 mile mark or so when the chain set get replaced you now have stage 1 that the dealer will try to sell you.

MatteOrange said:
I just finished the chain adjustment, uneventful.
Stage 2 put the chain in spec. I used the BMW oil which is C-SAF-XO 75/90
Only suggestion I would have is be careful putting the cover on so you don't damage the oil seal.
I used an inch pound torque wrench for the hardware.
Time start to finish is an hour.
If you are doing the running in service and the chain does not require adjustment I would still recommend changing the oil.
The oil that came out of mine was really dirty and the drain plug was filled with fluff.

This finished the running in service, only thing I can add with the oil change is to put the filter screen in the plug. It will hold it and align for installation. The front screen was replaced with the pick up pipe, this one will require installing the pipe before the plug because of the alignment notch.

I'll finish by saying this machine is the most fun, to date, that I've had on two wheels.
Glad I bought one.
Click to expand...
 
justscootin said:
Keep the stage 1 adjuster as when you look at it closely it does not show any wear. When you hit the 60,000 mile mark or so when the chain set get replaced you now have stage 1 that the dealer will try to sell you.
Click to expand...

You make a good point, thanks.
I was going to pitch it not thinking I would reuse it with a new chain set.
You are also correct in that it shows zero wear.

Thanks again
 
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