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Which battery tender to use?

Since the battery tender is to just maintain a charge, the smaller amperage is acceptable. Make sure your battery terminals are clean and corrosion free to prevent problems.
Also keeping your battery shell clean will help prevent a dead battery.
 
I hated bending down between the forks to connect the tender - and finally decided to try to move it. When I got my heated gear troller, I removed the tender cable, routed the troller cable through the same hole my BMW Navi connects to and it "hides" behind the Navi.

I got the tender to barrel adapter and thats what I plug into whenever parked. (Whether it needs it or not...)

I also got a flush jack mount and perhaps when the mood catches me I'll drill a proper hole somewhere in all that nice black plastic to make it real uptown.
 
My tender wire comes out at the handle bars. I plug in year round whenever not riding.04112014BMWSPORT7.webp

The connection comes out just below the aux fuse box just to the left of the bag.
 
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I've been using a Harbor Freight battery tender for the past three years. It's performed as it's supposed to keeping the battery up well in cold spells. I have a 12V coaxial socket mounted on the handle bar cover just under the bar on the left side. I put it there to plug in the controller for my Gerbings heated jacket and gloves. I wired it directly to the battery through a ten amp fuse. It makes a good socket to plug in the battery tender as well.
 
exavid said:
I've been using a Harbor Freight battery tender for the past three years. It's performed as it's supposed to keeping the battery up well in cold spells. I have a 12V coaxial socket mounted on the handle bar cover just under the bar on the left side. I put it there to plug in the controller for my Gerbings heated jacket and gloves. I wired it directly to the battery through a ten amp fuse. It makes a good socket to plug in the battery tender as well.
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I used the .75 for years with my first GT. When it got stolen and trashed I found another 2013 GT in crimson on Craigslist and bought it. I had the factory alarm installed and the .75 was still good. When I had a gps tracking unit installed it drew to much, and I went through 7 batteries that summer. I can’t believe that Napa traded them all out. I happened to see a full size Battery Tender at Home Depot and bought it. It was enough bigger that I have not had to replace the battery since then. It all depends how much current draw that your accessories have when sitting parked.
 
Well, when you get tired of fiddling with battery tenders and your heavy Pb battery finally gives up the ghost...put in a Li-ion battery instead. Costs about the same as a BMW battery (but more expensive than someone else' Pb battery of the same size). About $100-delivered to my door thanks to Amazon. Higher cranking amps, temperature insensitive, no maintenance, no battery tender (in fact, that would harm the li-ion battery), 1/3 the weight, smaller and if you do drain it by accident by leaving the keys in the ignition with lights on...the battery will recharge in less than an hour.
 
Thom Davis said:
Well, when you get tired of fiddling with battery tenders and your heavy Pb battery finally gives up the ghost...put in a Li-ion battery instead. Costs about the same as a BMW battery (but more expensive than someone else' Pb battery of the same size). About $100-delivered to my door thanks to Amazon. Higher cranking amps, temperature insensitive, no maintenance, no battery tender (in fact, that would harm the li-ion battery), 1/3 the weight, smaller and if you do drain it by accident by leaving the keys in the ignition with lights on...the battery will recharge in less than an hour.
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My original 2013 finally died. Thom which battery did you get? Can you post up a link?
 
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