Bike Control On Twisty Roads - mostly down hill.

[TwoPort]

I'm kinda slow so it's taken me over a month to relax on my GT. Now I'm considering how to best control the bike on twisty roads when I'm in tour mode. I'm now noticing the rather big difference between the "one gear to rule them all" and a clutch/gear bike - especially related to how I negotiate twisty turns.

Riding Back Brake to emulate down shifting control: Yesterday I was trying to use the back brake to "emulate" something like the drag created by down shifting so I was using it ... a lot!

Then I'd use the front brake more for just slowing down. So in the end it was some sort of "feel" between the two. At first it seemed weird then I began to like it as it seemed to very precisely help control the bike.

To be clear - this was in a very twisty stretch of roads around Napa California and mostly in the context of going down hill but the same thing seems to apply.

Is this the right way to approach control or have I gone off track?


--- Sidebar:
I really appreciated no shifting on some steep uphill 10mph hairpin turns. I was riding 2 up and more than once I was thinking that I'd be doing a little scrambling downshifting and feathering the clutch on a motorcycle.

 

[Skutorr]

If you change to Dr. Pulley sliders you'll be geared lower at low engine speeds and will have more engine braking downhill...

 

[TwoPort]

Thanks Skutorr. That makes sense - works on acceleration and deceleration. I've been thinking of making that change when the originals wear out - whenever that is.

 

[JaimeC]

And keep an eye on your rear brake pads... you might be wearing them down faster than you think! I just let the bike do what it wants in the "straights" and brake HARD at the entrance to any sharper turns, then get off the brakes as soon as I can. The only time I use the rear brake exclusively is in slow, tight maneuvering where I hold the throttle steady and regulate my speed with the rear brake. It's the closest I can get to using the rear brake/clutch friction zone technique on a regular motorcycle for doing tight U-Turns and such.

The trick is to keep the engine revs just high enough so the centrifugal clutch remains in contact and doesn't disengage. That definitely complicates matters when it happens.

 

[SteveADV]

.....The only time I use the rear brake exclusively is in slow, tight maneuvering where I hold the throttle steady and regulate my speed with the rear brake. It's the closest I can get to using the rear brake/clutch friction zone technique on a regular motorcycle for doing tight U-Turns and such.

The trick is to keep the engine revs just high enough so the centrifugal clutch remains in contact and doesn't disengage. That definitely complicates matters when it happens.

This from a former MSF instructor. These guys know. I was told the same thing during an advanced course. Rear brake when going slow and making turns (parking lots, etc). I learned the truth of this wisdom the hard way when I had to make a quick stop while going slow and attempting a turn and slammed on the front brake to avoid a loose puppy on the cross walk....bike down!

 

[exavid]

I use both brakes at all times except for hard turns especially at low speed. That's an invitation to accomplish an unplanned dismount. Using only the rear brakes on downgrades can cause overheating and unnecessary wear on the pads. There's a reason the bike has two brakes on the front and only one on the back. Rear brake only at slow speeds in parking lots is fine since low speed isn't putting excess wear on the rear brake. To scrub off speed going into a curve you really need both brakes, even more so when the curve is descending. The worst time to use the front brake is when the bike is below counter steering speed. When you're going slow enough that the bike is in direct steering, i.e. the handlebars are turned in the same direction you wish to turn, using the front brake is a quick way to get off the bike.

 

[TwoPort]

I Using only the rear brakes on downgrades can cause overheating and unnecessary wear on the pads. Rear brake only at slow speeds in parking lots is fine since low speed isn't putting excess wear on the rear brake. To scrub off speed going into a curve you really need both brakes, even more so when the curve is descending. The worst time to use the front brake is when the bike is below counter steering speed. When you're going slow enough that the bike is in direct steering, i.e. the handlebars are turned in the same direction you wish to turn, using the front brake is a quick way to get off the bike.

This is a ringer. It's just a new experience to go down a long - say 3 mile - downgrade with the "one gear" constant vs. shifting to lower gears I have to get better at. Overall I'm much happier with the scooter vibe of no shifting.

I wonder when BMW (or someone) will come up with electronically controlled CVT based on your riding situation. They already do it with automatic shift points and suspension. Seems like a natural progression. Mellow = more slip. Sport = more grab.

 

[Skutorr]

I wonder when BMW (or someone) will come up with electronically controlled CVT based on your riding situation. They already do it with automatic shift points and suspension. Seems like a natural progression. Mellow = more slip. Sport = more grab.

Honda's DCT already does that...

 

[exavid]

Honda's DCT already does that...

So does Suzuki with the Burgman 650. CVT with electrical control. On the other hand they've had some expensive transmission failures with them. BMW and Honda's CVTs have so far been pretty bullet proof.

One thing to remember if you're a new scooter rider is the same as new boxers are told, "lead with your left". In other words lead with the rear brake followed by the front...except in slow, sharp turns.