Fuel flap cover

exavid

Member
I had to replace the fuel filler flap on my '13GT due to some clumsiness on my part. I managed to hit it with my foot on dismounting when it wasn't quite locked down. A new style flap from the local BMW shop cost me $86.00, stiff but then its a BMW part which aren't known for low prices.

The black new style flap actually look better than the red one that was on the bike. Most of the flap extended up into the front of the black seat so it matches the seat better.

The new part doesn't interfere with the seat when it's not latched so it's much less likely to be damaged. Also the plastic on the new part is a lot more flexible than the original so it's not likely to be easily damaged like the original.
 

Thom Davis

Member
Did the same thing on my '13 sport. Easy to swing your leg through after popping the flap instead of the other way around. Don't think they changed the flap for the sport. I had made a "fix" to mine with some epoxy and plastic-didn't pop up, but stayed secure until needed. But finally had shop put in the replacement when I went in for another reason. Nice scooters, but some parts are really cheap and brittle (like brake levers and fuel flaps). Here in N. CA they have vapor catchers at the pump nozzles...wish that the scoots had some sort of extension to compress them since it is PITA to have to fuel with two hands while looking into the hole to see if you are about to overflow (which I do more often than I like.
 
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exavid

Member
I made an adapter for locking back the seal ring on California fuel filler nozzles so I could more easily fill my Goldwing. I still carry it today. Take a look at this ready made adapter which is just like the one I made out of some aluminum scrap I had on hand.

https://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=25635

I also made a replacement hinge for my original filler flap. Cut a strip of aluminum 5/8" or so wide about three inches long with a hole in each end. Bend up the ends to fit the pins below the filler neck. drill a few sall holes in the flat portion of the aluminum strip to allow cement to reinforce the glue joint. I used some epoxy cement to glue the aluminum to the flap, daubed on thick enough to come up through the holes in the strip like little plastic rivet heads to increase the holding power of the cement. It works just fine but I think I'll keep the black flap since it seems stronger and I like the black color there instead of the red.
 
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davidh

Member
Mine stopped latching at first (fixed with a little black electrical tape) and then I managed to break off one of the "pins" when removing it. Horrible design but the tape is doing its job and not too obvious.
 

justscootin

Member
The same as davidh With the design of the original flap it mine broke where the latch catches on the flat. I tried to repair it and failed. I then broke the hinge post.I rode for 3 years without it before splurging on the new design. The plastic feels to be softer and the latch has a taper/support

I look at it as a much better design.
 
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Thom Davis

Member
damfino, probably china. Plastic is made all over the world, though, so could be down the street from you (although hard to imagine BMW buying ANYTHING from the US).
 
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