Skene up front (on every bike I've owned in the past 10 years). That is the Admore Pro out back; it's in front of the license plate, also too low and I want to move it above the plate (it has a license plate light) I did have Skene tail llghts on my Xmax and intended to put them on this bike but the controller failed.
Hyperpro Shocks
- Thread starter mzflorida
- Start date
Sorry. I've been asking you for help and forgot to post this. I dialed it in today.
- I had 20.77 in sag out of the box after they were installed.
- I used this criteria.
- A= Reference; the distance between the lowest shock mount to a set measurement point.
- B= Sag High; bike flat, on both wheels, lifting rear, then gently letting it settle.
- C= Sag low bike flat, on both wheels, compressing rear, then gently letting it rise without bouncing.
- This is the standard formula for static sag A- (B+C) / 2) = MM of static sag.
- So A, minus the sum of B+C divided by two, equals mm of sag.
- The sag for this shock on this bike was recommended to be 10MM +/- 5mm.
- I adjusted the preload by exactly 5 MM, top end of the mfr recommendations (I'll fiddle 1 mm at a time over the next 5 rides)
- I backed off the compression damping all the way then added it back one click at a time noting the recovery.
- It rebounded too quickly at about 11 and 10 seemed about right, and in line with what the manufacturer recommends for the 400GT.
- I took it for a test ride.
- Cornering was so much better than before...the whole rides like it is on rails thing.
- Ride is incredibly improved
- High speed compression was a little off so I backed it off to 9. Just about perfect, no exaggeration.
There are no detents indicating the revolutions of the preload adjuster. However, 1 turn is equal to 1MM. You do not need the tool to adjust the preload when it is on the center stand, other than the Allen key for the set screw.
I really like Hyperpro products as they give a really nice sport touring feel. I do want to say, I am a bigger guy, 602 about 230/235. Others lighter than me also seem to like the brand. But obviously the springs for a heavier person vs. a lighter person are going to be different. Valving will remain the same, of course.
Me Too!
Yup. You'll need to store an Allen key to loosen the adjuster ring set screw, and that is it. On the center stand, with no debris in the threads, you do not need the traditional shock adjusting spanner we're familiar with. Hand loosen and tighten. Remote preload adjusters might be available but are entirely not worth it in my opinion. It literally takes the amount of time equal to raising the bike, turning the preload adjuster collar, and then tightening the set screw again. Maybe one minute without measuring?
wspollack
Active member
And you would count turns, or something like that, in order to put the preload back where it was (after, say, a two-up ride)?
What I did was pay attention to the set screw. One revolution around is one mm.
I hope you find them to be as good as I am repping. The low-speed compression I would rate a 10 of 10. High speed compression is about a 9 of 10. Stock shocks are about a 5 on both high and low speed. The deeper low speed hits, where the plane must have significant movement. are remarkable. Roll over, controlled drop, immediate recovery to center. With all this unsprung weight on this bike's rear end that is very hard to achieve.
@wspollack We chatted about this before. As we both opined, the lack of performance on the front suspension has become totally apparent. I think I mentioned this someplace before, but not sure...good news that there is almost no stiction on the front forks so the rebuild will probably produce excellent results overall. I like suspension tuning so I'm kind of excited about getting on to the fronts.
For those who don't know, high and low speed compression has nothing to do with the speed of the bike but rather the speed at which the suspension must compress and recover.