Ride Report: In Search of Native Lands [3 days, NC]

triangletom

Active member
In 40 hours' time, I'm embarking on a 3-day journey through the center of North Carolina, focusing on places that were important to the Native Americans of this area:

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Charging stops have been strategically placed in towns I'd like to explore by foot, so expect to see a lot of small-town action. Planned stops include:

- Town Creek Indian Mound
- Hardaway Site
- Morrow Mountain
- Charlotte
- Rutherfordton (overnight)
- Lake Lure
- Chimney Rock
- Little Switzerland
- Catawba Meadows
- Joara Site
- Lenoir
- Hickory (overnight)
- Trading Ford
- Sapona Town Site
- Salisbury
- Lexington
- Kewaunee Site
- Asheboro

All said and done, the trip should clock in at around 575 miles. My biggest fear for this trip is hitting a deer during one of my early morning departures. The thing I'm most excited about so far is Little Switzerland, just because it's one of the few areas of this state that I have yet to visit. Expect a delay of a couple of days to post things as I like to add research on the places I've visited.
 

triangletom

Active member
Here's what has been packed:

packing.jpg

Here's what I've packed:

- Emergency charging gear: J1772 cable, Jackery 1000 Power bank, adapters (TT30, 30A, 50A, Tesla), charger for Jackery
- Clothes: 2 shirts, 3 socks (1 waterproof), rain jacket, rain pants
- Tools: MotoPumps AirShot, Dynaplug Xtreme, Allen key set, Torx set, Headlamp, multi-tool
- Self-care: water bottle, snacks, toothbrush, deodorant, eye mask, first-aid kit, Garmin Messenger (Satellite tracker)
- Entertainment: MacBook Air, Fuji X100V, Kindle, USB cables

Believe it or not, this all fits without needing to bring along an ugly top case:

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Wow, keep us posted on your trip and charging station experiences. Looks like fun and I am liking those decals on the rear hub :)
 

triangletom

Active member
Thanks!

I gave the bike a 62-mile round-trip test ride to get an accurate range calculation with the weight & aerodynamic aspects of the side bag and came out with a rural highway range of 62 miles - roughly my going average on this bike. To mirror my range during trip modeling, I updated my settings on https://abetterrouteplanner.com/ to:

- Zero SDS ZF 7.2 + PT
- Reference consumption @65mph: 175wH/mi or 5.71mi/kWh
- 5% battery degradation
- 90'F starting temperature
- 35lbs of extra weight

I also tested the electric jerry-can in case of an over-enthusiastic range miscalculation or broken charger. I don't plan to use it though:

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Kickstands up at 5am tomorrow.
 
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Here's what has been packed:

View attachment 3919

Here's what I've packed:

- Emergency charging gear: J1772 cable, Jackery 1000 Power bank, adapters (TT30, 30A, 50A, Tesla), charger for Jackery
- Clothes: 2 shirts, 3 socks (1 waterproof), rain jacket, rain pants
- Tools: MotoPumps AirShot, Dynaplug Xtreme, Allen key set, Torx set, Headlamp, multi-tool
- Self-care: water bottle, snacks, toothbrush, deodorant, eye mask, first-aid kit, Garmin Messenger (Satellite tracker)
- Entertainment: MacBook Air, Fuji X100V, Kindle, USB cables

Believe it or not, this all fits without needing to bring along an ugly top case:

View attachment 3921
Lord only knows what this all means lol. Will learn over time no doubt.
J1772 cable, Jackery 1000 Power bank, adapters (TT30, 30A, 50A, Tesla), charger for Jackery
The Jackery 1000 is not used to charge the CE is it (in emergency)?
 
Darn, now I am starting to like the White colored CE now more then the Gray. Oh well, they only have the gray color on sale and available at their sale price.
 

triangletom

Active member
Curiously enough, I survived the first day.

260 miles traveled, 5 miles of gravel, 7 charging stops, a flash flood, and one unintentional deep water crossing in the dark.
 

triangletom

Active member
Curiously enough, I survived day 1 of 3: 260 miles traveled, 5 miles of gravel, 7 charging stops, a flash flood, and one unintentional deep water crossing in the dark.

I arrived at the B&B way later than planned, so a full-ride report will have to wait until I get home.

Between now and then, there are still a lot of miles to cover: including 100+ miles of mountain twisties, which is not something I have ever done on a scooter.
 

Fullum

Member
Curiously enough, I survived day 1 of 3: 260 miles traveled, 5 miles of gravel, 7 charging stops, a flash flood, and one unintentional deep water crossing in the dark.

I arrived at the B&B way later than planned, so a full-ride report will have to wait until I get home.

Between now and then, there are still a lot of miles to cover: including 100+ miles of mountain twisties, which is not something I have ever done on a scooter.
I'm sure it's gonna be a blast in the twists roads
A bit jealous ...
 

triangletom

Active member
Day 1 - Chapel Hill to Rutherfordton

Today began like most days do not: up at 5 am, staring at a scooter in the pouring rain, wondering if this trip was a good idea. Most adventures aren't, but that hasn't stopped anyone before.

My favorite personal fault is that when I commit to doing something, I do it regardless if it makes sense or not. Accordingly, I pressed the button to bring the BMW CE-04 to life as thunder reverberated across my recently adopted hometown of Chapel Hill, NC.

My primary goals for today were the Town Creek Indian Site, lunch with a friend, and a quaint bed and breakfast in Rutherfordton, NC - some 200 miles direct - but the straightest routes in life are always the dullest.

Flashes & Floods

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It is raining absolutely cats, dogs, and wombats. I'm glad I loaded the bike up the night before, even if it means I have to unload the rain jacket and rain pants as the thunder rumbles in the background. In the pitch-black rain, I head, nervous enough that I accidentally trigger ABS before making it out onto the main road. I'm a bit more careful as I wade through downtown Chapel Hill, the UNC campus, and onto 15-501.

As I pull onto the 4-lane highway south toward Pittsboro, the weather intensifies. Lightning is dancing around me in all directions, and the rain hits the road so hard that it splashes back upwards. Visibility is poor: without my brights on, I have difficulty seeing the lane markings, but due to oncoming traffic, they are off most of the time.

Doubts swirl through my head: is this insanity? Is the reason why lightning strikes rarely hit humans because most of them are smart enough to stay home when bolts are visible? Is 1.7mm of tire tread enough to avoid hydroplaning? I pull into a gas station for a moment - if only to put a pair of waterproof socks on.

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If I hang out here for even 30 minutes, it will blow my schedule off course, so after a minute or two, I suck it up and hit the road again. I tell myself that as long as I can make it to my charging stop in Goldston, I can hide under a shelter there and delay for a while.

The strength of the storm pulses in and out. My watch is buzzing with notifications, but at this point, I'm not stopping for anything. Pittsboro is a blur. I turn off onto Highway 902 toward Goldston, glad that I had at least rehearsed this section earlier in the week so that I know that the road conditions are good. I'm thankful that the rain keeps the deer off the road at this hour.

Crossing over George's Creek, I suddenly hear a loud "whoosh" sound as my front wheel dives through a stream of water that I never saw. As the water smashes the underside of my bike, the sound reminds me of being inside a loud carwash. It hit so hard that my feet could feel the impact reverberate through the battery pack and the rubber footrest. My speed instantly drops from 40mph to 28mph before the "Throttle it out when in doubt" mantra hits, and I leave the overflowing creek behind me.

I'm so regretting my decision to nix purchasing an Insta360 because even in the dark, the crossing must have looked crazy. The rain begins to let up, but I keep things slow afterward anyways.

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I stop off at the Goldston Library to charge: it's only 32 miles from home, but it's precisely on my route, and the next stop is just about at my 65-mile range limit for rural highways. I arrive with 52% - I only need a 5-minute charge to make it to my next stop, but I decided to try waiting out the rain. The library has no covered area, so I hid beneath a tree, and within 25 minutes, the storm finally ended.

# Star: The Geographic Center of the Universe

With the rain halted, I tear out of the parking lot and notice the dawn coming up behind me. My mood improves.

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I note that with the rain gone, the deer will come out soon to eat once they've dried off. I'm scared as hell of deer and take special notice whenever I pass through an area with a forest on one side of the road and a field on the other. If a deer can take out Mr. Safety, it can take me out too.

By the time I hit Highway 24 toward Biscoe, the roads have dried off, and I pick up the pace to make up for lost time. The increasing frequency of signs relating to pottery let me know that I'm not far from Seagrove, AKA the "Pottery Capital of the United States." Some miles away from my destination of Star, NC, I get a little reminder of the cost of all that extra velocity.

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There is that pernicious little formula that says: the energy required to overcome wind resistance is cubic to velocity. On a two-wheeled EV, even going 5mph over the speed limit has a noticeable impact on the range. Thankfully, my route pulls me off the highway at the next turn and puts me on slower backroads, so I arrive at the charger with 11% left.


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I set my rain gear out to dry, set my stopwatch for 45 minutes and begin walking around in search of a bathroom, coffee, and breakfast. At 8 am on a Friday, I already know my best option is a convenience store/gas station a half-mile up the road. The town of Star is small but oozing with character: from the rail yard to the auto shop to the jail. It feels great to be exploring on foot for a change.

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At the convenience store, an older gentleman is scratching off what appears to be an unlimited number of lottery tickets. A younger gentleman ahead of me grabs a coffee and lines his pockets with an innumerable amount of half & half containers. I hit the restroom, grabbed a shitty pre-manufactured pastry and a mediocre cup of coffee, and headed to the park across the street to enjoy them.

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triangletom

Active member
Heading to Town
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From Star, I head south on Alt 220 through Biscoe and Candor (home of the NC Peach Festival) and eventually onto a 4-mile unpaved road named "Lovin Hill Rd." There were one or two pucker moments as the road alternated between crushed stone, mud, and sand, but overall it was in good condition. I loved the experience and could not wait for it to end.
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I was more mindful about my throttle this time and arrived at Town Creek with plenty of battery left. If I had been low on charge, my plan was to politely ask one of the rangers if I could use one of their external power outlets.
Town Creek is North Carolina's only state-run park focusing on its Native American heritage. The site was an active village built by people from the Pee Dee culture and occupied from 1150—1400 AD. The villagers abandoned it for unknown reasons before the Europeans landed in North Carolina in 1524. The going theory is that they moved west to the Catawba River.
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I'm behind schedule, so I skip the movie, look at their surprisingly thin amount of artifacts, and head out the backdoor to the archeological site. They've reconstructed the palisades, a handful of buildings, and the mound. I was a little disappointed in the lack of artifacts shown, but it's definitely worth checking out if you are in the area:
An ancient quarry
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Heading Northwest on 73 and 27, I cross over the great Pee Dee River. The river is over 1000ft wide at this point, which allows the Uwharrie Mountains to be visible behind them. The Yadkin River joins the Uwharrie north of here, and the river today has a series of dams and reservoirs that likely contribute to the width.
The Uwharrie Mountains are little known outside of North Carolina but are one of the oldest mountain ranges in the United States. They are at least 20 million years older than the Appalachians and once rose to some 20,000 feet before eroding to just over 1,100 feet. In recent history, the Uwharrie was a famous hideout for Civil War draft dodgers before Zebulon Vance ordered it cleared out.
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The Uwharrie Mountains were also volcanically active, resulting in a lot of rhyolite - a social-rich volcanic rock that lends itself to prehistoric tool making. By the time 10,000 BC rolled around, Morrow Mountain, in particular, had been turned into one of America's oldest rock quarries. If you wanted a sharp arrowhead or spear, it's gotta be genuine Morrow Mountain Rhyolite. Tools made from this mountain were traded throughout the East Coast and have been found in archeological sites from Maine to Florida.
The roads through Morrow Mountain State Park are gorgeous, and my first taste of mountain twisties is on the BMW CE-04. Initially, I didn't feel I had precise control of it in the tight turns, but it felt great nonetheless.
Ablemarle: a weird place
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Albemarle is a weird-feeling town - it feels far more significant than one would expect for a population of 15,000, with oodles of large government buildings. In retrospect, that makes a lot of sense, given that it is the county seat, albeit a small one. Albemarle is an old textile town with a surprisingly lovely-looking downtown area - but it was devoid of commercial activity, with only a single place open for lunch.
I'm an hour behind schedule, so I get lunch in Albemarle instead of Charlotte and charge up beside the police department and courthouse. On the way to eat, I dodge two police officers and a schizophrenic lady. I first overheard her yelling at the sky while unpacking the bike, so I carefully concealed the side bag with my jacket before walking away from the parking lot.
 

triangletom

Active member
Fuck Charlotte

I was heading to Charlotte, NC, not because it made sense thematically but because I was meeting two old friends. I was running late, and I got my times a bit mixed up as I use two apps for trip planning:

- ABetterRoutePlanner (now owned by Rivian), which takes charging times into account and even recommends chargers along the route but does not know about the current state-of-charge

- BMW Motorrad Connected, the only app displayable on the scooter's massive 10" screen, gives time estimates but neglects to consider charging times or recommend charging stops.

While programming the route in both apps, I initially added a second charging stop in East Charlotte but later removed it from ABRP as it was unnecessary. The time estimate was for that charger rather than the Starbucks.

Once I realized my mistake, reaching the correct destination took me another 15 minutes. Once plugged in, I punched up Starbucks on Google Maps and began walking. It turned out to be the wrong Starbucks, as multiple of them existed at the same intersection. My friend was, in fact, at a 3rd Starbucks elsewhere. The heat was killing me, so I wasn't going anywhere, and I forced my friend to meet me wherever the fuck I actually was.

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Hanging out with friends was great but it also forced me into Charlotte rush hour. Not commuting by anything but bicycle or a metro train for the last 13 years, I forgot that rush hour was a thing. The BMW Connected app helpfully routed me in front of Charlotte's largest stadium, where folks were lining up for a country music show. The traffic was traumatic in the heat, and a lack of clarification on when and where filtering was allowed had me join in with what the cars were doing. Not being a US citizen, I try my best not to challenge local conventions.


On the way out, I noted the Iswa Nature Preserve on the way out, named after the Catawba tribe of Native Americans who used to live along the nearby river.

Charming Cherryville


The Nav system recommended routing through Cherryville instead of riding through Shelby, so I rode up 274 to do so. The roads were lightly twisty with a light flow to them. As I was within a few hundred feet of a charger, I stopped by for a quick top-off as an insurance policy and an excuse to explore the town. In the parking lot, the welcome committee vehicle awaited me:

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The town looked cute, but nothing seemed open, even on a Friday evening. I was in and out of there within 10 minutes.
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Rutherfordton: the unpronounceable town

When the GPS announced the name "Rutherfordton", it sounded like "Rufton," so I asked a local. She said, "No, that's not it. It's Rufton". It sounded the same to my ears, but perhaps some subtle garbled half-hearted syllables were added in for good measure. Regardless, Rutherfordton was where the Carrier House B&B was and my final destination for the day. I didn't arrive there until 7:50 pm.


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I got to talk at length with the proprietors, who offered to let me park the CE-04 in their garage so that it could be charged overnight. They also pointed me to the Copper Penny Grill, which had a fantastic glazed salmon dish and a great beer selection.

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After dinner, I fell asleep quickly. It'd been 14 hours since I had left my driveway, with 260 miles traveled. At least 4 hours were spent charging, but instead of waiting, I wandered around with a camera in hand.

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Tomorrow the twisties await.
 

Fullum

Member
Thanks! I mostly use RAW, but have the camera set to RAW+JPG to make it easier to beam photos to a phone. Do you shoot Fuji as well?
Great story and photographs by the way, I've got the Xpro2 and shoot mostly Raw and process in Capture One.
Have a safe Journey! And enjoy!!!
 

triangletom

Active member
Day 2: A twisty 179 miles

Today is the day of the twisties that I've been dreaming about. Breakfast at the Carrier House Bed & Breakfast was incredible: a creamy parfait, a savory souflée, and excellent coffee. I regret not exploring Rutherfordton, as it's one of the oldest towns in North Carolina (1787). It was also named after a general who inflicted considerable damage on the nearby Cherokee tribes in the Cherokee–American wars.

Alas, the hills were calling my name.


Onward to Lake Lure!
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The last time I rode a motorcycle through the mountains was in 2010, so I'm feeling a bit rusty as Polk County Line Road begins to twist before continuing to Grassy Knob Rd. It's a great feeling wandering amidst the country orchards. I spy an Ornate Box Turtle crossing the road at one point and use my bike to block its safe passage.
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At the intersection of Highway 9 & Highway 64, the mythical Lake Lure comes into view. The scene of parts of Dirty Dancing, the lake itself, is relatively young, only coming into being in 1927. Some wiseguy developer imagined this would be an excellent site for a lake resort, so he founded Carolina Mountain Power Company, which went on to dam the Broad River and built a hydroelectric plan to power his resort town.
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Lake Lure is incredibly picturesque. I didn't need to charge here, but there was a free charger at the visitor center, and I wanted to walk around and take photos.
 

triangletom

Active member
Chimney Rock
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Chimney Rock is part of the Hickory Nut Gorge, sacred to the Cherokee and Catawba Indians. They tell tales of this being the land of the Yunwi Tsunsdi', or small dwarf or fairy-like humanoids who live in the rock caves. They were the guardians of the sacred tsa'lu (tobacco) and took action against those who hoped to harvest it.
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Chimney Rock overlooks the Gorge and Broad River and is a State Park. The road leading up to it is slow, windy, and picturesque.
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To get to the top, you can take an elevator or stairs that wind through boulders and bat caves. There are many places for Yunwi Tsunsdi' to hide, so watch your step.
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Heading across the Broad River from the park is a cute tourist trap of a town. I get questioned by walkers about the scooter, check out the river, and move on.
 

triangletom

Active member
Old Fort

Now the roads are getting twistier, which gets me pumped for the adventure to come.

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My next stop was Old Fort, where the visitor center has two free EV chargers: one J1772 and one Tesla (NACS). The J1772 charger was in use by another BMW, so I was glad to have the TeslaTap Mini adapter handy for the CE-04. The driver on the other charger was nice enough to come out to ask if I wanted to swap spaces with them, but it wasn't necessary.

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Downtown was small but charming, with a brewpub that I wish I had been able to try. I wasn't hungry and have a strict rule about no alcohol on two wheels. I had a very uncomfortable time riding through Belgium once, where I stopped for what should have been a long lunch and got a beer, but we had to leave early.
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There was a lovely outdoor museum with 18th-century buildings from the area and what seemed to be the world's most depressing craft market. Even under their shady tents, the craftspeople had wilted in the heat, and no one looked like they wanted to be there.

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On the way out, I passed Fort Davidson, which the town was named after. I hadn't planned to stop by - due to its controversial existence - but I was at the entrance anyways, so I wandered in.

I peeked inside the fort and saw that it was occupied only by reenactment actors setting up, so I began to walk back to the bike. One of the leaders noticed me taking photos and encouraged me to come in and check things out.

I'm glad I did, as I got an excellent 20-minute overview of the fort's history. I'll spare you the details, but if you are interested, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Davidson' s_Fort - suffice to say, the fort has a particularly bloody history, including being the base from which Rutherfordton wiped out the towns of the Lower Cherokee.

I took the bizarre way out of Old Fort recommended by the Nav software "Windy" mode, hitting small country backroads such as Cane Creek Rd and Mackey Creek Rd toward Marion.

I'm glad I did because the roads were both picturesque and fun to ride:

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triangletom

Active member
Little Switzerland & Blue Ridge Parkway

Little Switzerland has been on my "to-ride" list for years. It's a little slice of twisty-road heaven an hour east of Asheville, where two famously twisty roads intersect with the Blue Ridge Parkway: Highway 226A and Highway 80. Riding up Highway 80, I was having the time of my life. Seriously, I haven't had this much fun in YEARS. I couldn't help but feel I was truly living my best life here. Even the Blue Ridge Parkway section made for sublime riding. While the BRP is not exceptionally technical riding, it makes up for it in natural beauty and flow.
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Little Switzerland lacks a central area to walk around, but it does have several hotels, cafes, bookstores, and a handful of EV chargers. I chose to stop at the Little Switzerland Cafe & Bookstore, as my body and bike could use the energy boost.
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Afterward, I had to pick between 226A, which, while world-famous for excellent riding, would return me to Marion, where I had just come from, and continuing the Blue Ridge Parkway through Linville Gorge, which would get me much closer to Morganton.
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Wanting to get to Lenoir by dinner, I chose the latter. I have a small ounce of regret for missing out on 226A, but it gives me a good reason to return later.
 
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