Wrapping up, sliders, variator, etc, 2nd gen

speedtoys

Member
There are..as many ways of doing the sliders (weights) variator and clutch (springs) as could be discussed here...

But They all _tend_ to favor the 1st Gen bikes...

Is the basic wisdom that the 2nd gen resolved enough performance/reliability issues in these, that "upgrading" is less beneficial?

I would not argue away more zip from a light. :)
 

Skutorr

Active member
It would still be worth it to upgrade to the Dr. Pulley sliders and sliding pieces (guides) eventually, as they last essentially forever and will still give you more grunt off the bottom and better performance overall through their superior materials and design.
 

speedtoys

Member
*nod*

Thanks for the confirmation..added to the list.

I already have an Aeroflow screen (tall one) on order as I sit high enough to want it, and my first farkle.

May go take advantage of my discount at the dealer and snag a Navigator VI as well.
 

speedtoys

Member
It would still be worth it to upgrade to the Dr. Pulley sliders and sliding pieces (guides) eventually, as they last essentially forever and will still give you more grunt off the bottom and better performance overall through their superior materials and design.

Im prepared to order this, but Im looking for a wrench buddy in Norcal...i'm an apt and dont have to direct resources at home...to do this.

I am not against a local trusted mechanic to do it either, as i understand it is not a long job..
 

speedtoys

Member
..I guess I need a Kaoko now too...

Stay tuned...I need to catch up on the "right" weight or combination of weights..I dont mind the stock clutch engagement/release. I really don't notice it.

I drove a Tmax in Thailand last year, that was _impossible_ in traditional city traffic there...just jumped in and out of engagement, and wouldnt disengage until a near stop which didn't let you coast at all.

THAT RENTAL is what got me eyes/mind on a MaxiScooter.
 

davidh

Member
..I guess I need a Kaoko now too...

Stay tuned...I need to catch up on the "right" weight or combination of weights..I dont mind the stock clutch engagement/release. I really don't notice it.

I drove a Tmax in Thailand last year, that was _impossible_ in traditional city traffic there...just jumped in and out of engagement, and wouldnt disengage until a near stop which didn't let you coast at all.

THAT RENTAL is what got me eyes/mind on a MaxiScooter.

Yes on the Kaoko, it's awesome. As for weight, I'm using 30G sliders with good results. Refer to this post if you need instructions on doing it and feel free to post/DM any questions.
 

speedtoys

Member
Why wont my clutch and variator cover come off. All the bolts are off and it rocks back-and-forth and if I tap it sounds loose but it will not come off
 

speedtoys

Member
Well, gotta pull it off, its on bloody bearings.

Doesnt match the instructions..but it came.

With the Dr Pulley sliders, seems the belt flaps around a bit more/louder, and theres a much louder "whirrrr" turbine noise than there was before.
 

cpallenjr

New member
courtesy of +Davidh
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fdgh82fbiez0skf/BMW C650 GT Belt and Roller Service (v2).pdf?dl=0

"BMW C600/C650 Belt and Roller Change Page 3
3.Removing the CVT cover is also simple until you get to the one bolt buried under a structural member. BMW was kind enough to provide a hole in which T30 screwdriver can be placed to loosen the bolt. You won’t be able to remove it completely but the cover can be removed with it in place. The following two pictures show the bolt and passthrough"
 

speedtoys

Member
Nah, I studied. That wasnt a problem. Was prepared for that bolt.


Im my 2018, there are bearings in the cover, that sit over the shaft ends of the clutch and variator shafts. Note the threaded holes in the covers that are meant to, on the clutch side, insert a bolt to turn in and push off, and on the variator side I had to use a slide hammer.

With all my best efforts, I could get it to come off perfectly straight, so one bearing stayed in the cover, the other stayed on the clutch side shaft.

I failed to get photos..I suck.

But the bearings in the cover, are a press fit. But are also secured by two small tabs held down with 2 screws. Pulling the cover bent the tabs as again, one bearing came out of the cover, and the other half-way. A vise flattened them again, a press to set em back in, and the cover went on. Its a tight fit to get the shafts in the bearings straight. Gotta gotta go slowly.

Current online photos do not match reality. I do see the cover in that PDF has these holes to assist in removing the cover, but mine was -not- just coming off..so reading and preparing, I was not prepared for having to gather materials to get it apart this way.

Screen Shot 2019-03-12 at 12.59.43 PM.jpg

40367070743_fc296d8af6_z.jpg
 
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davidh

Member
Nah, I studied. That wasnt a problem. Was prepared for that bolt.


Im my 2018, there are bearings in the cover, that sit over the shaft ends of the clutch and variator shafts. Note the threaded holes in the covers that are meant to, on the clutch side, insert a bolt to turn in and push off, and on the variator side I had to use a slide hammer.

With all my best efforts, I could get it to come off perfectly straight, so one bearing stayed in the cover, the other stayed on the clutch side shaft.

I failed to get photos..I suck.

But the bearings in the cover, are a press fit. But are also secured by two small tabs held down with 2 screws. Pulling the cover bent the tabs as again, one bearing came out of the cover, and the other half-way. A vise flattened them again, a press to set em back in, and the cover went on. Its a tight fit to get the shafts in the bearings straight. Gotta gotta go slowly.

Current online photos do not match reality. I do see the cover in that PDF has these holes to assist in removing the cover, but mine was -not- just coming off..so reading and preparing, I was not prepared for having to gather materials to get it apart this way.

View attachment 2308

View attachment 2309

Good job! Nice to know some of the changes between the first and second generations.
 

speedtoys

Member
Going back on..yes, coming off..not for an hour did that do anything, it came SOME off, but that was it.

Do you notice more belt noise at idle, and more spin up and down "whurring"?
 

speedtoys

Member
Well, something is wrong from this install a few weeks back.

I installed the sliders with the "line" on them pointing up, so you can read the label on them, flat side towards the center of the unit.

Did a few hundred miles this weekend error free, but this am on way to work, a lot of belt slippage...and an angry noise when coasting down..the noise stops when you get near to stopping.
 

davidh

Member
Well, something is wrong from this install a few weeks back.

I installed the sliders with the "line" on them pointing up, so you can read the label on them, flat side towards the center of the unit.

Did a few hundred miles this weekend error free, but this am on way to work, a lot of belt slippage...and an angry noise when coasting down..the noise stops when you get near to stopping.

Very curious that it started that long after the change. What was the condition of the clutch when you disassembled everything. And remind me -- how many miles on the bike and is it the OEM clutch?
 

davidh

Member
Just hit 800 miles today was brand new

Sorry for the delay; my phone was being wonky yesterday. It definitely sounds like something with the clutch but you won't know until you look (sorry!).

Does the "angry noise" sound like grinding, rattling, or something else?
 
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