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Congrats on discovering one of motorcycling best kept secrets - well, in the US anyway. Elsewhere in the world, hundreds of millions are enjoying the scooter benefits daily. I came over in 2018 from Geneva having ridden a Honda 300 scooter for years and first vehicle I got was my 2016 C650 Sport...

That small nut is to cover the hole that emerges after you install the new tensioner and pull a small tab that sits inside the hole and, when you pull it (bit like a grenade pin), releases the tension/spring that then pushes the piston against the timing chain and keeps it under pressure...

Looks nice and good price I would say - should sell soon if you advertise it in the right places. Best of luck, hope you can continue riding something fun.

So ... there is a spring inside but it doesn't do anything anymore, and the tensioner is stuck at a certain length? But you can manually turn the thing in or out, and it will just stay where you put it?

This is not the manually adjustable (aftermarket) type but good idea to open it up; by cleaning and lubricating you may/should be able to restore its original functionality - I'll try the same with my current one when I replace it, and see if that works. Then no need to keep buying new. Did you...

Never buy these used! Sounds like yours is done for - the 'frozen' part applied to the one I replaced two years ago, when I started to hear the death rattle. They are spring loaded and that's how they keep the chain tight. They freeze up for some reason I don't know, and that's when the rattle...

I saw a video where the bike owner adjusted the tension on the manual adjuster, with engine running, just to where it stopped rattling.

They're new, great price I thought also, which is why I bought all 4 they had available. Apparently the tensioner is also a KYMCO part that is generally less expensive, but I could not find their part # so went with the BMW one.

First off I would scan the ECU for any trouble codes. My guess would be an idle vacuum line that has split open, allowing false air and confusing the ECU. I had this happen once, I inspected the hoses and one was indeed split with an opening. Replaced it and it hasn't happened again.

Yeah it was replaced at 2,000 miles under warranty, then I did it again at around 12K miles 2 years ago. Rode it last Friday and no rattle, but speaking from experience, it will start rattling more and more often, so once my 4 tensioners come in, I am just going to replace the current one out of...

I just snug them up by feel like Bill, haven't lost one yet nor cracked any plastic.

Not sure how the ground is supplied to the headlights, sorry! I would probably just start to look around, take off some plastic, and hope to spot a ground wire. The main negative terminal is of course the '-' cable that is attached to the battery, but this will not be the problem, as much more...

So we're barely 2 years later, and about 5,000 miles more, and my cam chain has just started to rattle ever so slightly again. So I just bought, on Ebay, 4 (!) new tensioners from a supplier that was offering them for $37 each. 4 was all they had in stock, or I would have bought a few more! So...

Symptoms like these are often caused by poor grounds, so I would check the one(s) to the headlight fixture.

35,000 km is low for a 2017 C650. Mine is from 2016, currently has 29,000 km on the clock and still rides like new. As you write, regular maintenance is important, as is a good test ride to check everything out. That all said, lower mileage at the same price is always better. Your decision...

This is why, generally, I stick with factory parts and don't try to upgrade or modify my vehicles from stock. If I want more power for example, I get a more powerful bike. I don't try and massage my current one into something that the manufacturers' engineers did not create, test and approve. To...

I thought I had replied earlier - that I don't think the belt could be the cause of a slipping noise, especially not at such low mileage. As for the clutch to need de-glazing, on my bike at least that manifests itself as a very jerky acceleration, not a slipping sound, but YMMV.

I voted 1300 GS because I need my bike for my long commute (200 km each way = 400 km once a week) so I want POWER and comfort.

My guess (and that's all it is) is that the hesitation was due to the old rollers, not the belt. But, the important thing is it's fixed, hopefully 'forever' now.

If you know what circuits these fuses power, try and trace the wiring to look for a short: exposed wire that is touching the bike's frame/metal causing the fuse to blow. Odd though that there's 2 fuses blowing, that would indicate some more significant issue.