justscootin
Member
$10 a quart is not the oil that is recommended by BMW as it is only at the dealer at $18 or more depending on dealer. You are getting spectro or some other brand.
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- Thread starter the jer
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Nope, this was the BMW Motorrad 15w-50 Semi Synth oil.
This isn't the dealer I got it from, but it shows you their price.. $18 a quart is the dealer trying to rip you off with high markups...
Third one down is what I got...
MAX BMW Motorcycles - OIL AND OTHER FLUIDS/LUBRICANTS
This isn't the dealer I got it from, but it shows you their price.. $18 a quart is the dealer trying to rip you off with high markups...
Third one down is what I got...
MAX BMW Motorcycles - OIL AND OTHER FLUIDS/LUBRICANTS
I really wanted to use Mobil 1 as I use that in everything else I have, but they don't list JASO MA certification. not that I know what that is or if it would even matter as i'm sure BMW is just using an oil they use in their other bikes. (JASO MA has to something do with wet clutches which we don't have)
The BMW oil is a semi synth and I would certainly rather use full synth. I may have to try Mobil 1 on my next oil change...
EDIT: After some further research it turns out that Mobil 1 15W-15 (Automotive) oil is only semi synthetic now anyways, similar to the BMW oil. However the Racing 4T and the V-Twin Motorcycle oils they make are still full synthetic, and that is probably why they cost twice as much.
So I think my next oil change will be with the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 oil. (Which is allegedly 15W-50 anyways, supposedly they changed to label to 20W-50 as Harley owners were concerned with putting in a 15W-50 oil when the manual called for a 20W-50)
The BMW oil is a semi synth and I would certainly rather use full synth. I may have to try Mobil 1 on my next oil change...
EDIT: After some further research it turns out that Mobil 1 15W-15 (Automotive) oil is only semi synthetic now anyways, similar to the BMW oil. However the Racing 4T and the V-Twin Motorcycle oils they make are still full synthetic, and that is probably why they cost twice as much.
So I think my next oil change will be with the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 oil. (Which is allegedly 15W-50 anyways, supposedly they changed to label to 20W-50 as Harley owners were concerned with putting in a 15W-50 oil when the manual called for a 20W-50)
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ItsPhilD
Member
From the Mobil 1 site:
Mobil 1 15W-50 advanced full synthetic motor oil is recommended for all types of vehicles, and is suitable for use in high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and diesel multi-valve fuel injected engines found in passenger cars, light vans and trucks.
Here is the link to their page: Mobil 1 15w-50
That's because they can now classify their oils as Fully Synthetic even though they are not anymore...
Group IV and V oils are truly full synthetic oils, the 2 motorcycle oils they make are Group IV oils, the automotive oils are Group III.
"In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.
Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics."
Group IV and V oils are truly full synthetic oils, the 2 motorcycle oils they make are Group IV oils, the automotive oils are Group III.
"In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.
Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics."
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bill steele
New member
So today I had the 6000 mile service done ( there is 6400 miles on the bike) (I had changed the oil at 5000 miles so they did not have to do this) todays bill was 253.00 dollars, they changed the brake fluid,cleaned the pads add fuel additive lubed the center stand checked the chain sag and ran a tests on the computer for any faults, also they did the recall on the side stand as a warranty work (I think I paid for the time for that also.) they used 22.00 dollars in parts and 18.00 dollars in state tax. I got there at 8:50 am and left at 12:50 pm.
bill steele
New member
The maintenance schedules are just money makers for the Mfg. to sell product and the dealer to make money after the sale, I have found that you can go longer on most things they want although I won't do that on the oil that is pretty much the live blood of the bike.
justscootin
Member
What side stand recall
Oldscoot
New member
Skutorr
Active member
CHANGING BRAKE FLUID at 6,000 MILES! You got BONED!
DOT 3/4 brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air and therefore under temperature the oxygen in the water molecules can combine with trace amounts of aluminum worn off of your cylinders, to form those white crystals you find in old brake components, which are Aluminum Oxide. Aluminum Oxide is used in SANDPAPER as a cutting medium. So, it will destroy your cylinder walls and tear-up your seals.
Oh, in an OPEN SYSTEM that is vented to the outside. The BMW master cylinders use a rubber diaphragm to allow for fluid displacement WITHOUT exposing it to the outside air. No moisture, no Aluminum Oxide, MINIMAL WEAR!!!
No need to replace for AT LEAST 40,000-50,000 miles. You got BONED.
DOT 3/4 brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air and therefore under temperature the oxygen in the water molecules can combine with trace amounts of aluminum worn off of your cylinders, to form those white crystals you find in old brake components, which are Aluminum Oxide. Aluminum Oxide is used in SANDPAPER as a cutting medium. So, it will destroy your cylinder walls and tear-up your seals.
Oh, in an OPEN SYSTEM that is vented to the outside. The BMW master cylinders use a rubber diaphragm to allow for fluid displacement WITHOUT exposing it to the outside air. No moisture, no Aluminum Oxide, MINIMAL WEAR!!!
No need to replace for AT LEAST 40,000-50,000 miles. You got BONED.
bill steele
New member
So I'm not going to worry about them replacing the brake fluid, If they did that they probably couldn't find any thing else to do on the bike,So the bike is in good shape and I have no worries,I'm sure there is a learning curve for the Techs since they didn't have scooters before 2012 and We all are going to be the guinea pigs for now since we have the new toy in town. This is a BMW not a Vespa they are going to charge you more for the work.
Skutorr
Active member
Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty...these are really quite simple machines.
Back when I had my automotive restoration business, there were clients who couldn't afford me and were worried about doing their own work.
I used to tell them that the MAJOR difference between a Pro Mechanic and themselves was that he was paid $$$. That's IT.
Sure he had experience and trick tools...but would cut corners and take short cuts, assuming he knew it all. The FASTER he worked the more $$$ he made.
An Owner, on the other hand, is PAYING for the parts on a vehicle HE OWNS! If he screws-up, he'll pay again and even more, and feel like an IDIOT.
Who do you think has MORE of a vested interest in doing it right the FIRST time??? The OWNER.
SO, get a Repair Manual, invest in the RIGHT tools, Take your time and ASK for ADVICE/HELP.
Guess what...you'll do just FINE, save a SHITLOAD of $$$ and KNOW that it was done correctly.
Back when I had my automotive restoration business, there were clients who couldn't afford me and were worried about doing their own work.
I used to tell them that the MAJOR difference between a Pro Mechanic and themselves was that he was paid $$$. That's IT.
Sure he had experience and trick tools...but would cut corners and take short cuts, assuming he knew it all. The FASTER he worked the more $$$ he made.
An Owner, on the other hand, is PAYING for the parts on a vehicle HE OWNS! If he screws-up, he'll pay again and even more, and feel like an IDIOT.
Who do you think has MORE of a vested interest in doing it right the FIRST time??? The OWNER.
SO, get a Repair Manual, invest in the RIGHT tools, Take your time and ASK for ADVICE/HELP.
Guess what...you'll do just FINE, save a SHITLOAD of $$$ and KNOW that it was done correctly.
bill steele
New member
I am a business owner of 40 years, I am licensed and really good at what I do, the most important thing I learned as a business person is that you can't do everything good at all things that you try. Especially with some thing that can move at 100 + mph and your riding on it. You really have to know you limits and stick to them no matter how much it cost, because it could cost you your life,So take a deep breath and say to yourself is my life worth a few hundred bucks and peace of mind or am I going to take a shot at it and play the odds, Good Luck at witch ever you choose.