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They're new, great price I thought also, which is why I bought all 4 they had available. Apparently the tensioner is also a KYMCO part that is generally less expensive, but I could not find their part # so went with the BMW one.

First off I would scan the ECU for any trouble codes. My guess would be an idle vacuum line that has split open, allowing false air and confusing the ECU. I had this happen once, I inspected the hoses and one was indeed split with an opening. Replaced it and it hasn't happened again.

Yeah it was replaced at 2,000 miles under warranty, then I did it again at around 12K miles 2 years ago. Rode it last Friday and no rattle, but speaking from experience, it will start rattling more and more often, so once my 4 tensioners come in, I am just going to replace the current one out of...

I just snug them up by feel like Bill, haven't lost one yet nor cracked any plastic.

Not sure how the ground is supplied to the headlights, sorry! I would probably just start to look around, take off some plastic, and hope to spot a ground wire. The main negative terminal is of course the '-' cable that is attached to the battery, but this will not be the problem, as much more...

So we're barely 2 years later, and about 5,000 miles more, and my cam chain has just started to rattle ever so slightly again. So I just bought, on Ebay, 4 (!) new tensioners from a supplier that was offering them for $37 each. 4 was all they had in stock, or I would have bought a few more! So...

Symptoms like these are often caused by poor grounds, so I would check the one(s) to the headlight fixture.

35,000 km is low for a 2017 C650. Mine is from 2016, currently has 29,000 km on the clock and still rides like new. As you write, regular maintenance is important, as is a good test ride to check everything out. That all said, lower mileage at the same price is always better. Your decision...

This is why, generally, I stick with factory parts and don't try to upgrade or modify my vehicles from stock. If I want more power for example, I get a more powerful bike. I don't try and massage my current one into something that the manufacturers' engineers did not create, test and approve. To...

I thought I had replied earlier - that I don't think the belt could be the cause of a slipping noise, especially not at such low mileage. As for the clutch to need de-glazing, on my bike at least that manifests itself as a very jerky acceleration, not a slipping sound, but YMMV.

I voted 1300 GS because I need my bike for my long commute (200 km each way = 400 km once a week) so I want POWER and comfort.

My guess (and that's all it is) is that the hesitation was due to the old rollers, not the belt. But, the important thing is it's fixed, hopefully 'forever' now.

If you know what circuits these fuses power, try and trace the wiring to look for a short: exposed wire that is touching the bike's frame/metal causing the fuse to blow. Odd though that there's 2 fuses blowing, that would indicate some more significant issue.

I would start with checking the wiring, connectors. Wiggle them as you press the switch to raise the windshield, see if that does anything. It would also be good if you can check for any fault codes in the bike's ECU, using for example the Motoscan app.

Last week I had Michelin Road 4 tires installed on my C650 and really like them, over the Shinko's I had before, that really did not last very long.

I have a rattle on my K1600 coming from the front. Turns out some small rodent used the bike's faring to store his or her winter supply of small berries! So far I managed to extract about 30 of them but more are rattling around in the nooks and crannies. They only rattle when I raise the...

I got a set of new rollers and sliders at my local BMW dealer.

I believe that if one or more of the starter inhibitor switches is/are 'off', the bike also won't crank. So if it cranks, normally it should start AFAIK. I assume there's enough fuel in the tank ...

I always stick with the BMW house brand oil and spec. No need to experiment I feel, for something so important and relatively inexpensive.

Did this problem arise suddenly? There's 2 spark plugs and it's unlikely they cause the no start. Does it crank over? Did you check all starting inhibitor switches including helmet storage compartment?